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​Pattern Reviews, Easy Projects, Tips, & Sew-a-longs 

7/30/2023 4 Comments

A Barbie Dress

How to sew the barbie movie dress
Hi Barbie! Have you noticed the pink phenomenon that is spreading all over the world? It's a whole Barbie craze! And, I'm here for it. Gimme aaallll the pink. Have you seen the movie? I saw it twice. I made a dress and had to share it with you. Yay for Barbie sewing!
Barbie movie dress sewing pattern
Barbie dress. Check! Fuzzy pink slippers. Check!
I grabbed the Barbara Bodice pattern from Gertie's Patreon. If you aren't a member, run, don't walk, and join now! She gives so much over there, even at the base level. The Barbara bodice is the updated version of her original Butterick 6453.

This, isn't a sew-along, but it's more of a show and tell. I want to show you the Barbie movie-inspired dress. If you've made a Barbie dress, shorts, PJs, or other inspirational item, tag me. I want to see what you made. I've seen a few goth Barbie outfits that are super fun too.

Let's dive in!
Barbie dress pattern by gertie sew a long

Barbara Bodice

My thoughts on the Barbara bodice might not be the popular opinion. But, I much prefer the Butterick 6453. I like how the back fits me. It has a simple dart. The Barbara has a 2-piece back pattern. It's fine enough, but seems to be extra. 

Barbara has different cup sizes, which is awesome!! No more figuring out your FBA. For the busty gals, this is a huge plus! However, my bodice didn't fit, as flawlessly as the Butterick 6453. I had some extra armpit room, which is weird. I like the FBA I created for the Butterick pattern better. I plan on making another Barbara (I didn't make a mock-up for my Barbie dress) and I'll play with the pattern, fit, and sizing.

Gertie included 2 strap options with the Barbara Bodice. Self-tie straps that are thin, and wide gathered straps, for bra strap coverage. I opted to use the thin self-tie straps, and they covered my wide bra straps well enough. 

The Barbara doesn't have any facings, it's fully lined, which I'm a huge fan of! I definitely love the pattern and am a huge fan. Both the Butterick 6453 and Barbara come together so easily and are fun to sew. It's the perfect last-minute dress pattern. But, I'm still on the fence if I'm over the moon happy with the Barbara. 

Have you sewn it? If so, have you compared the two patterns side by side? The general consensus I've seen across the interwebs is that the Barbara is wonderful. But, as I've gone down the pattern-making black hole, I've become more of a pattern snob kabob. 


How to make a barbie movie dress
Thinner straps that you tie into a bow.
Barbie movie dress pattern with pink gingham fabric by robert kaufman
Back of the dress has a fun scoop.

Skirt Stuff

Gertie also created the Barbie movie skirt pattern to go with the bodice. It's a full box pleat skirt that uses aalll the fabric. When I ordered my fabric, I ordered 4 yards. However, the skirt alone uses over 4 yards. So, I went with plan B.

I opted to draft my own circle skirt, and of course, I added roomy pockets. I actually prefer circle skirts over gathered ones anyway. I have a fuller tummy and appreciate less fabric in that area. Plus, circle skirts are just fun! 

I've been learning pattern making as I mentioned above, and I'm taking it one step at a time. If you're interested, check out Tricia, she's the best teacher! And, her motto is "You don't need to be good at math for pattern making". Which I'm all about because mathing is hard. Haha :D
Self drafted circle skirt pattern for the barbie dress
Self drafted circle skirt pattern with pockets.
barbie movie dress sewing pattern.
There's nothing better than a circle skirt twirl.
How to accessorize a barbie dress
I wore a white flower necklace, white earrings, and a pink hair flower. I wore light pink shoes too, but at home, it's all about the pink fuzzy slippers.

Welp, that's it. Do you love the dress? I sure do. I feel so girly in it and it'll be a February staple as well. I plan on wearing tights and a sweater, or a long sleeve underneath it.  

Not a Barbie fan? You can sew this 1950s-style swimsuit instead. It's the Bombshell and it's flattering on everybody.

Have you ever been interested in quilt making, but it looks intimidating? Read my blog post and you can sew one up in about a week. 



Thanks for hanging out today. Happy sewing of all things pink! 


XOXO,
​Annette
4 Comments

6/21/2023 0 Comments

A Tale of a Sewing Fail: New Look 6446

New Look 6446 beginner friendly clothing pattern
Sewing is a journey. Whether you've been sewing for a few months or decades. As sewists, we are constantly learning. We have ups and downs. Recently I took a jump and disregarded a golden sewing rule. Yep, I had a sewing fail. I've been sewing for over 20 years and you would think with that many years under my belt, I'd be a super pro. Nope, not the case. 

I started with a pattern I've made before. The fit is good but, I went rogue! I used knit fabric for a woven pattern. And the outcome was, well, all kinds of wrong. Here's why you stick with the fabric that the pattern recommends. 
New Look 6446 sewing pattern jumpsuit
Choose your fabric wisely. When you pick a sewing pattern, the envelope gives your lots of important information. Do not ignore it. Read the fabric recommendations and stick with them, for the most part. I made my first New Look 6446 pattern back in 2020 with a stretch cotton sateen. It turned out beautifully. I wear it all the time and love the fit. I wanted to make another one and figured since the last one turned out, I could use knit fabric for a second one. It would be the ultimate cozy secret pajamas. I was wrong! 
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
I followed the directions to the T. I even followed the layout instructions after I had made a mental note of my directional fabric. The back legs ended up getting cut upside down. Womp womp. Nevertheless, I carried on. 
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
Sewed the darts on the front and back bodice pieces. 
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
Added the interfacing to the top piece. At this point, I started to realize I chose the wrong fabric. the knit didn't like being sewn in this direction. But, I kept going. 
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern beginner friendly jumpsuit
The pocket bags sewed up nicely. This pattern has such nice roomy pockets. I love it!
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern beginner jumpsuit
The pant legs went together seamlessly as well. So far, the only real issue has been the bodice area. 

New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
Sewed up the crotch seam. I was getting excited because it was coming together nicely.
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
Pinned the bodice piece to the legs at the waist and sewed. I did notice a little stretching at this seam but thought it was no biggy. Secret pajamas remember!? This is going to be so cozy!
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern how to insert an invisible zipper
Next up was the invisible zipper. I love sewing these. It feels so wrong the way they go in, but it looks so right after they're in. I buy mine in bulk, so it was either black or white. I chose black, but wish I used a white one. Ah well. 
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
I didn't take photos of the lining, but it's the same as the bodice. It was all stretched out. I attached the shoulder straps and hemmed the legs. 

I tried it on and it fit. It fits with tonnns of extra room! Not good. It's not a baggy-style jumpsuit. It's supposed to be more form fitting. Ack!! 

Where I went wrong

  • I chose knit fabric for a woven pattern. Not smart. The amount of ease and sewing pieces were created for a non stretch fabric. When I made my first one, the fabric had a slight stretch but, wasn't knit. Lesson learned. 
  • I laid my fabric out with the direction in mind, but then left my brain in the kitchen and placed the pattern upside down. So, my back pant legs are upside down. Face-palm, lesson learned.
  • Rippled top piece was interfaced with stretch interfacing. Not sure if this was a good or bad move. I think it was a bad move perhaps? I also think I should have made the lining with a woven fabric. It would have acted as a stabilizer to keep the knit fabric from stretching out. 

Fixables

  • Armhole sagging, gapping, bagging. I will unpick the waist seam and take a "dart" out of the each side seam. This will hopefully eliminate the bagged out armholes.
  • I'll take in the waist seam a bit too, it's on the too big side.

On a Postive Note

I learned my lesson on fabric choice. I thought I'd be able to get away with using a different fabric, but learned that I in fact, cannot. I'm glad it was a silly mistake that I can fix. I still love the jumpsuit and plan on wearing it for three seasons. It's super comfortable and looks cute. The upside down fabric on the backside doesn't bother me as much. The print is small enough that nobody will even notice. 
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
So much more room for activities.
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
See the saggy armholes? And top piece? Blah
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern
Upside down fabric on the back legs. But, it's not too noticeable, right?
New Look 6446 Sewing pattern sewing fail
Plenty of room to dance in.
What's your most recent sewing fail? Or sewing win!? Let's celebrate both today!! Comment below. 

Happy sewing!
Annette
0 Comments

6/21/2023 0 Comments

Simplicity 8654 Vintage-style Shorts

Simplicity 8654 shorts sewing pattern. Vintage 1940s style
​Summer is here, and do you know what that means? It's time to tackle your warm-weather vintage sewing patterns. The weather has been cooler lately, but shorts are still a necessity. The Simplicity vintage-style pattern 8654 is a perfect summer sewing pattern. It has swooshy shorts, a cute top, and a fun skirt. I chose to sew the shorts. I have a pair of RTW shorts that are similar, but no longer fit. So, I decided to make my own. The shorts have minimal pattern pieces (4) and take about 2 yards of fabric, more or less depending on your size. Let's get started!
Simplicity sewing pattern S8654 Vintage shorts 1940s

Cut + Trace

​
Find your size on the pattern. The style is very forgiving in the hips, so I went with my waist measurement only.

Cut the pattern or trace it onto paper. Transfer all your markings. This, is especially important for the pleats. 

​Cut out the fabric pieces and interface your waistband. 

Sew, sew, sew!

Match the front pieces together. Pin and sew along the curve. 
How to sew your own vintage wardrobe. Sewing shorts
Sew the inseam curve.
Fold the pleats, matching the marked lines, and sew. Do this with both of the front pieces. Then, repeat the same steps for the back pieces. The pattern instructions were fairly easy for these shorts. No issues to write home (or you) about.
How to sew vintage shorts.
Sew your pleats. Make sure you marked the fabric pieces well.
How to sew pleats. Vintage style sewing pattern for shorts. Simplicity 8654
The front should look like this before you topstitch the pleats in place. Top stitching keeps the pleats formed nicely.
​
Your pleats should look like the ones above. Topstitch after you sew them to keep them secure. 

Flip over the shorts, and there will be two rows of stitching, like the photo below. So far, pretty easy, right?
simplicity sewing pattern 8654 shorts
After top stitching, the inside will look like this. 2 rows of stitching.
Grab your two pocket pieces. Sew along the edges on a front piece and again on a back piece. This pattern only has one pocket because of the side zipper. If you're feeling brave, you could easily add a second side pocket and insert the zipper in the back seam instead.

Sewing is all about customization. :D

I didn't love how they have you sew the pocket. But, note to self, next time sew it up how I would regularly sew an inseam pocket. 
How to add inseam pockets to shorts.
Sew your inseam pocket following the pattern instructions.
simplicity 8654 how to sewing tutorial.
Only 1 pocket is going in, on this pattern.
​
Zipper time! This pattern calls for a lapped zipper, which is a true vintage style zipper. I am somewhat new to the lapped zipper, as I've only been sewing them for 2 or so years. I'm a huge fan! They take minimal effort and go in pretty easily, with a few tips and tricks. 

I use a strip of 1" interfacing for all of my zippers. It helps stiffen up the fabric, and the zipper looks nicer after it is sewn in. 

Press the right side under 1/2". Pin the fabric right next to the zipper teeth. Sew, using a zipper foot. 

Then, press the left side under 5/8". I close the zipper and pin the fabric to the zipper tape. Be sure to barely cover the right side stitches. Unzip, then sew. 
How to insert a lapped zipper in shorts.
Inserting a lapped zipper. Press the right side with a 1/2" seam allowance. Then, pin the right side of the zipper tape right up against the fabric fold.
How to sew a lapped zipper.
Close up view. The fold is right along the zipper teeth. Use a zipper foot and sew in place.
How to insert a vintage lapped zipper.
Press the left side 5/8" under. Then, pin the zipper to the fabric. Make sure you overlap to cover the stitching on the right side just a smidge.
​Time for some waistband action. I sewed a straight size 18 for the shorts and used the size 18 waistband pattern piece, but the waistband was too short. So, I added an extra piece of fabric to insure the waist band was long enough. I've noticed with a lot of patterns that the waistband always falls short of the skirt, shorts, or pants. ?? Maybe I'm broken, but does this happen to you?

It was an easy fix, luckily. Just make a note of it when you make these shorts. 

Pin and sew the waistband to the shorts, making sure to match notches and seams.
sewing a waistband that's smaller than the shorts hack.
See the seam where I had to add extra fabric? Nobody will notice except me. ;)
simplicity 8654 shorts pattern
Close up view of the waistband. Attach to the shorts. Pin, then sew.
​After sewing the waistband to the shorts, flip the raw edge over to enclose the raw edges of the shorts. The band will enclose them. 

Pin from the outside, right along the seam line, catching the inner fold with the pins. This, is my most favorite way of sewing a waistband. It goes quickly and has a clean finish. 
How to sew a waistband the easy way. Vintage sewing pattern..
Fold the edge over to the inside. Pin from the outside making sure the inside edge is just a smidge longer. Sew.
Sewing simplicity 8654 shorts
Pin around the whole waistband. Start on one end and sew the entire waistband.
Sewing a vintage pair of flouncy shorts. simplicity 8654 pattern.
It will look like this. Nice and neat.
​Time to hem your new shorts. You can turn the raw edge under 1/4" and then under again, like the pattern instructions say. Or, serge the raw edge and turn under once and sew. I prefer to do it this way most times. It is quick and easy, and is great for pants or shorts. 
How to hem shorts.
Hem your shorts. You can turn them under, then under again. Or, serge the raw edge and sew.
Add a label in the back of the shorts. The front looks very similar to the back, so this little addition helps when it's time to get dressed. If you don't have labels, add a fun piece of grosgrain ribbon. 
How to make your handmade clothes extra special.
Add a cute label inside on the back. These shorts look similar on the front and back. Attach a piece of ribbon if you don't have any labels.
Don't forget to add your buttonhole and button. I opted for a fun contrasting pink one. I love my colorful coral zipper too. It mostly matches. Ha! 


how to sew simplicity 8654 sewing pattern. Gertie fabric from Joann
If you haven't already, add your button and buttonhole.

End Thoughts

The shorts fit great! I went down a size in my waist because I know the big 4 patterns usually add a lot of ease. My waist is 33-34", and I sewed the size that had a 32" waist. They fit perfectly and have a little wiggle room. The fabric I used is a rayon challis. In my experience, rayon shrinks over time with the first few washings. If it shrinks, I'm good. If not, I'm good. Either way, I'm happy with the size I chose.
The fabric is a Gertie designed fabric she used to have at Joann stores. It's almost a decade old. I made a Rita with it. The leftover fabric was from the yardage I bought all that time ago. 
Funny enough, I did not have a top that matched my new shorts. Yes, I have black tops, but I wanted some color. I made a solid bright pink Rita to wear with them. I know, so bizarre for me to sew solid fabrics. Because the shorts were so busy, I wanted some simplicity on top. 


Next time I make these shorts, I'm going to play with the pleats. I think I'll fold the fabric differently to give them a different look. Maybe a large box pleat? 


Simplicity 8654 sewing pattern
Secret Shorts! Looks like a skirt, but it's not.
How to sew a vintage wardrobe
vintage style sewing blogger
easy vintage style sewing patterns
Thanks for following along. Now, go grab the pattern and get started on your summer sewing. 

Are you excited to make these shorts? Have you made them before? Would you make them again?

​Happy stitching,
Annette
Sew your own vintage wardrobe. It's easy!
0 Comments

1/1/2023 2 Comments

Gardner Top by Gertie

Gardner Top by Gertie Pattern charm patterns
The holidays call for fancy fabrics and sequins. Don't you agree? There's just something fun about wearing sparkle during the festive month of December, isn't there? Add soft velvet and, I'm in! If sewing velvet scares you, read this post. I share my sewing machine and tips for tackling tricky fabric.
These Gardner tops fulfilled my fancy holiday fabric needs. The fabric was originally for vintage-style turbans. I've wanted to make velvet ones for quite some time. I only had 1 yard of each and was lucky that the one yard worked out. Whew! I changed direction at some point and decided to make Gardner tops instead. The matching sequin fabric went with the red one, and the sheer floral went with the green one. 
As usual, I don't go into depth with Gertie's Patreon patterns because I value her as a creator. However, I like to share tips and photos that show you my process along the way. If you're interested in this pattern, join her Patreon membership. She shares new patterns each month and so much more! 
I made one Gardner top following the exact directions and another collar hacked version. This post is full of photos. Let's go!

Red Gardner Top (Original Version)

How to trace sewing patterns
Start your top by tracing the darts onto the front. I prefer old-school wax paper and a tracing wheel system for this part.



How to sew curved bust dart
Your dart legs should look something like this.
How to staystitch
Staystitch the front, clip into the seam allowance at the center front.
Staystitch the  front and back necklines. Sewing from the shoulder towards the center prevents the neckline from stretching out. Never skip this step.
After you sew up the darts, cut them open. If sewing your top with velvet, don't press the seam open. 
How to sew bust darts
Cut dart open.
Gardner top by Gertie
The sheer fabric is full of glitter, sequins, and all the sparkles. Perfect for holiday festivities.
Sewing 1940s style vintage patterns
If you go slow while sewing and make sure your seams are clipped, you shouldn't get any puckers in the V-shaped front. If you do get puckers, unpick that section and re-sew. 
How to sew without puckers
Yay for no puckers!

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2 Comments

6/4/2022 0 Comments

Butterick B6453 Dress Pattern

Picture
If you need a break from difficult sewing projects, I encourage you to grab the Butterick 6453 dress pattern. It was a easy and fun to sew! The only timely adjustment I needed to make was an FBA. After that was sorted out, it was all downhill.

This dress is fluffy and full, no need for a crinoline underneath. The princess seams are flattering. The straps are perfectly positioned. And, the back zip is a cinch. What are you waiting for? Grab the pattern and let's get started! 
Butterick Dress B6453
Bathrobe sleeves don't make great fabric cutting wear. LOL The sleeves were constantly in the way. I suggest wearing low profile Pajamas.

Supplies

  1. A whole lotta fabric, this dress is a fabric hog. 4-5 yards is needed
  2. Interfacing
  3. Matching or contrasting thread
  4. Sewing machine and notions
  5. Serger, pinking shears, or a zigzag machine to finish the raw edges
  6. 16" or longer zipper
  7. Seam ripper because... sewing
  8. Rings and sliders for adjustable straps

Sewing Notes

  • This dress is super easy and only has 10 pattern pieces! This was wonderful news because I made the Hooded Princess Coat before this dress and that was a beast. Read the post if you've always wanted to make your own raincoat. Gertie did a wonderful job with the pattern.
  • I chose double-faced linen. It was a little heavy for this exact dress but, I love it nonetheless. It'll be warm enough to wear in the fall paired with tights and a sweater. I suggest using regular linen, cotton, gingham, etc. Check the pattern envelope for fabric options.
  • Shorten or lengthen to fit your torso. I shortened the bodice pieces by 1.5" because I have a short torso. I could have gone a little shorter.
  • Size down 1-2 sizes at least. I sized down but, in the end, the dress was still too big. Four inches on each side, too big! I have to take in everything. Ugh. Honestly, I threw on a little belt and it was fine to wear. But, I plan on taking in the side seams, princess seams, waist, etc. Cue the tears.
  • Widen the straps if you wear larger bras. Us gals with bigger cup sizes know the wide bra strap game all too well. I made my dress straps 1" wide and they cover my bra straps perfectly.

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    Hi there, I'm Annette and I love eating and sewing. I usually have a cup of coffee or tea with me, but not next to my machine because I'd probably spill it. I am the reason we can't have nice things.

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