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​Pattern Reviews, Easy Projects, Tips, & Sew-a-longs 

6/21/2023 0 Comments

Simplicity 8654 Vintage-style Shorts

Simplicity 8654 shorts sewing pattern. Vintage 1940s style
​Summer is here, and do you know what that means? It's time to tackle your warm-weather vintage sewing patterns. The weather has been cooler lately, but shorts are still a necessity. The Simplicity vintage-style pattern 8654 is a perfect summer sewing pattern. It has swooshy shorts, a cute top, and a fun skirt. I chose to sew the shorts. I have a pair of RTW shorts that are similar, but no longer fit. So, I decided to make my own. The shorts have minimal pattern pieces (4) and take about 2 yards of fabric, more or less depending on your size. Let's get started!
Simplicity sewing pattern S8654 Vintage shorts 1940s

Cut + Trace

​
Find your size on the pattern. The style is very forgiving in the hips, so I went with my waist measurement only.

Cut the pattern or trace it onto paper. Transfer all your markings. This, is especially important for the pleats. 

​Cut out the fabric pieces and interface your waistband. 

Sew, sew, sew!

Match the front pieces together. Pin and sew along the curve. 
How to sew your own vintage wardrobe. Sewing shorts
Sew the inseam curve.
Fold the pleats, matching the marked lines, and sew. Do this with both of the front pieces. Then, repeat the same steps for the back pieces. The pattern instructions were fairly easy for these shorts. No issues to write home (or you) about.
How to sew vintage shorts.
Sew your pleats. Make sure you marked the fabric pieces well.
How to sew pleats. Vintage style sewing pattern for shorts. Simplicity 8654
The front should look like this before you topstitch the pleats in place. Top stitching keeps the pleats formed nicely.
​
Your pleats should look like the ones above. Topstitch after you sew them to keep them secure. 

Flip over the shorts, and there will be two rows of stitching, like the photo below. So far, pretty easy, right?
simplicity sewing pattern 8654 shorts
After top stitching, the inside will look like this. 2 rows of stitching.
Grab your two pocket pieces. Sew along the edges on a front piece and again on a back piece. This pattern only has one pocket because of the side zipper. If you're feeling brave, you could easily add a second side pocket and insert the zipper in the back seam instead.

Sewing is all about customization. :D

I didn't love how they have you sew the pocket. But, note to self, next time sew it up how I would regularly sew an inseam pocket. 
How to add inseam pockets to shorts.
Sew your inseam pocket following the pattern instructions.
simplicity 8654 how to sewing tutorial.
Only 1 pocket is going in, on this pattern.
​
Zipper time! This pattern calls for a lapped zipper, which is a true vintage style zipper. I am somewhat new to the lapped zipper, as I've only been sewing them for 2 or so years. I'm a huge fan! They take minimal effort and go in pretty easily, with a few tips and tricks. 

I use a strip of 1" interfacing for all of my zippers. It helps stiffen up the fabric, and the zipper looks nicer after it is sewn in. 

Press the right side under 1/2". Pin the fabric right next to the zipper teeth. Sew, using a zipper foot. 

Then, press the left side under 5/8". I close the zipper and pin the fabric to the zipper tape. Be sure to barely cover the right side stitches. Unzip, then sew. 
How to insert a lapped zipper in shorts.
Inserting a lapped zipper. Press the right side with a 1/2" seam allowance. Then, pin the right side of the zipper tape right up against the fabric fold.
How to sew a lapped zipper.
Close up view. The fold is right along the zipper teeth. Use a zipper foot and sew in place.
How to insert a vintage lapped zipper.
Press the left side 5/8" under. Then, pin the zipper to the fabric. Make sure you overlap to cover the stitching on the right side just a smidge.
​Time for some waistband action. I sewed a straight size 18 for the shorts and used the size 18 waistband pattern piece, but the waistband was too short. So, I added an extra piece of fabric to insure the waist band was long enough. I've noticed with a lot of patterns that the waistband always falls short of the skirt, shorts, or pants. ?? Maybe I'm broken, but does this happen to you?

It was an easy fix, luckily. Just make a note of it when you make these shorts. 

Pin and sew the waistband to the shorts, making sure to match notches and seams.
sewing a waistband that's smaller than the shorts hack.
See the seam where I had to add extra fabric? Nobody will notice except me. ;)
simplicity 8654 shorts pattern
Close up view of the waistband. Attach to the shorts. Pin, then sew.
​After sewing the waistband to the shorts, flip the raw edge over to enclose the raw edges of the shorts. The band will enclose them. 

Pin from the outside, right along the seam line, catching the inner fold with the pins. This, is my most favorite way of sewing a waistband. It goes quickly and has a clean finish. 
How to sew a waistband the easy way. Vintage sewing pattern..
Fold the edge over to the inside. Pin from the outside making sure the inside edge is just a smidge longer. Sew.
Sewing simplicity 8654 shorts
Pin around the whole waistband. Start on one end and sew the entire waistband.
Sewing a vintage pair of flouncy shorts. simplicity 8654 pattern.
It will look like this. Nice and neat.
​Time to hem your new shorts. You can turn the raw edge under 1/4" and then under again, like the pattern instructions say. Or, serge the raw edge and turn under once and sew. I prefer to do it this way most times. It is quick and easy, and is great for pants or shorts. 
How to hem shorts.
Hem your shorts. You can turn them under, then under again. Or, serge the raw edge and sew.
Add a label in the back of the shorts. The front looks very similar to the back, so this little addition helps when it's time to get dressed. If you don't have labels, add a fun piece of grosgrain ribbon. 
How to make your handmade clothes extra special.
Add a cute label inside on the back. These shorts look similar on the front and back. Attach a piece of ribbon if you don't have any labels.
Don't forget to add your buttonhole and button. I opted for a fun contrasting pink one. I love my colorful coral zipper too. It mostly matches. Ha! 


how to sew simplicity 8654 sewing pattern. Gertie fabric from Joann
If you haven't already, add your button and buttonhole.

End Thoughts

The shorts fit great! I went down a size in my waist because I know the big 4 patterns usually add a lot of ease. My waist is 33-34", and I sewed the size that had a 32" waist. They fit perfectly and have a little wiggle room. The fabric I used is a rayon challis. In my experience, rayon shrinks over time with the first few washings. If it shrinks, I'm good. If not, I'm good. Either way, I'm happy with the size I chose.
The fabric is a Gertie designed fabric she used to have at Joann stores. It's almost a decade old. I made a Rita with it. The leftover fabric was from the yardage I bought all that time ago. 
Funny enough, I did not have a top that matched my new shorts. Yes, I have black tops, but I wanted some color. I made a solid bright pink Rita to wear with them. I know, so bizarre for me to sew solid fabrics. Because the shorts were so busy, I wanted some simplicity on top. 


Next time I make these shorts, I'm going to play with the pleats. I think I'll fold the fabric differently to give them a different look. Maybe a large box pleat? 


Simplicity 8654 sewing pattern
Secret Shorts! Looks like a skirt, but it's not.
How to sew a vintage wardrobe
vintage style sewing blogger
easy vintage style sewing patterns
Thanks for following along. Now, go grab the pattern and get started on your summer sewing. 

Are you excited to make these shorts? Have you made them before? Would you make them again?

​Happy stitching,
Annette
Sew your own vintage wardrobe. It's easy!
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2/25/2022 0 Comments

The Hooded Princess Coat by Charm Patterns

Gertie's sewing pattern charm patterns Hooded princess coat

My Little Red Raincoat

This hood is a Patreon expansion pack of Gertie's Princess Coat sewing pattern. Sew your own raincoat to keep yourself dry and cute. 

Do you ever find yourself needing a garment, but you can't find one out there that suits your style? This is that garment. I have a few hooded coats but, they're wool or fleece. Not really a raincoat per se. And, I have two obsessions: coats and shoes. I need all the coats and I need all the shoes. Ha!

​I think coats and jackets are the best accessories because they add warmth- especially if you're always cold, and fabulous-ness to your outfit. Imagine yourself wearing a t-shirt, jeans, flats, and red lipstick. A normal little everyday outfit, right? But, then add a black velvet coat with a faux fur collar and your outfit gets a major upgrade! 

That's what coats and jackets do for me. I guess they're my jewelry. So, when Gertie came out with her Princess Coat pattern, I had to grab it. Then, a month later she rolled out her Patreon expansion pack to make a raincoat. I was sold! I needed a raincoat.


Fast forward 2 years and I still hadn't made my beloved raincoat. First of all, rainwear fabric was something I had zero clues about. And, second, I sew on a budget. I didn't have hundreds of dollars to drop on fabric for a coat I would wear maybe twice a year. Thanks Southern California for never raining. Living in the desert, we don't get a lot of rain but, when it rains, it pours. Hello flash floods. And, hello Little Red Raincoat.

"It never rains in Southern California"
Gertie Charm Patterns The Hooded Princess Coat
Tracing and cutting the outer fabric. The kitchen table was my best friend for this process.
This post isn't a How-to because it's an expansion pattern for Patreon only. Gertie is gracious enough to spoil her Patrons with all her marvelous patterns. If you're interested in making a vintage style raincoat, Grab the pattern here. Then, join her Patreon here. It's definitely worth it. We get a new pattern each month and honestly, it's too many for me to keep up with. But, I pick and choose which patterns are "need to sew now" and which ones are in the "someday" category. 

Anywho, I did have a few little areas I ran into trouble with so, I'll share my input on those. But, other than that, enjoy all the photos of my Little Red Raincoat. Yes, I named it. :D
Sew a raincoat for yourself.
No rain but, it was a frigid day in February.
Why did I start sewing the raincoat after 2 years you ask? Well, remember this post on January Jeans? My sewing friend on Instagram was still talking with her jeans sewing group. They decided to do a #JacketJanuary. I was invited and thank goodness for those ladies! They welcomed me and I made new sewing friends. Yay!! 

One gal finished her jacket on time and a few were waiting for the last touches by the end of January. We met every Monday for a fun Zoom call. the group kept me going and I was finally able to get my coat finished. It wasn't finished on time because I was undecided on whether to use buttons or snaps. In the end, I decided on snaps. Buttonholes and water don't go together so nicely

Snaps are usually easy but not this time. I put the first one in upside down. Cried (not really but, I wanted to). Then, put another one in wrong. Ha! I don't like snaps (anymore) or buttons. Face-Palm! 
Fully lined raincoat. I love sewing my own clothes.
Isn't my pink lining fun? This coat can double as a Valentine's Day Coat.

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9/9/2021 2 Comments

Simplicity 8505 Caftan Sewing Pattern


Have you ever dreamed of floating around the house in a vintage 70's caftan? What about in your beautiful backyard? I vote yes for both! This Caftan sewing pattern is the only one you need, it's vintage and authentic.

Way back in high school, I borrowed a caftan from my mom's friend to wear to a dance. The 70s wasn't the theme but, I wanted to wear it. It felt so silky and soft while I wore it and danced all night long, with friends. 

When I saw this pattern via an Instagram friend, I knew I had to snag one for myself. She looked so fabulous in hers, and I knew I needed that pattern in my life. I hope you grab the vintage reproduction pattern and make a caftan, too.
simplicity sewing pattern caftan 8505 dress
Oh hey there! I'm just living my 70s dreams.
I ordered the Simplicity #8505, 1970's caftan pattern from an Etsy shop. And after searching my local sewing shops for the perfect fabric, I decided to order that online too. If you make this, I recommend looking at fabric in person first, to give you ideas. It's fun to feel the drapey fabrics. Who doesn't love touching all the fabric? Are you ready to make the comfiest dress ever?
Let's get started.
How to sew a caftan with a sewing pattern.
Here's what you'll need. I also wanted to share a few tips and ideas for you to try, if you want.

Supplies: View B

  • Simplicity Pattern 8505
  • 3.5-6 yards of fabric (depending on your size)
  • Interfacing Scrap
  • 2 yards of twill tape or ribbon, 1/2" wide
  • 1  1/2" button
  • Matching thread
  • Microtex or Sharps sewing needle
  • Sewing machine + all the notions (scissors, clips/pins, rulers, etc.)
  • *Optional: Fleetwood Mac playing in the background ;)




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3/27/2021 3 Comments

Easy Vintage Hair Scarf Sewing Pattern

Pinup rockabilly retro vintage hairstyle with scarf
Oh hey, I'm just fixing my hair in my new hairscarf.
Do you love the vintage pinup look but, don't know where to start? Grab some peddle pushers, a black fitted top, and this sewing pattern! You're about to get your vintage style on. 
This pattern is the straw that broke the camel's back- in a good way. I have quite a few patterns I want to share but, I lacked the technical know-how to get them to you. This is the pattern that made me search the interwebs, far and wide on how to create a PDF. And, here it is! Finally a downloadable pattern that was made just for you!

This wide hair scarf is made for good hair days, bad hair days, and for the curly haired gals too! I see you (I am a curly girl). Toss your hair up in a messy bun, and you'll be cute as a button when you wear this retro inspired hair-scarf. This isn't a lifesaver but, it's definitely a hair saver. 

If this thicker style headband isn't your cup of tea, I have a post on a narrower one, over here. It can be worn with your hair up or down. You can tie it around your neck, wrist, or use it as a purse accent when tied in a bow. The size is completely customizable too, lengthen or shorten it to your desired size


Okay, lets get started on the Wide Hair Scarf Pattern. 

What You'll Need:

  1. 1/2 yard of cotton fabric
  2. The Pattern
  3. Sewing machine 
  4. Clips or pins, ruler, chalk pen
  5. Matching or contrasting thread
  6. Chopstick or other turning tool
  7. A smile, because you're making something cute :)
Let's get sewing! 

Download the PDF pattern, print it out (*do not scale or resize), and tape it together. This will now be your pattern piece. Make sure to match up the star points. Cut out the pattern along the lines and set it aside. It will resemble a plague mask at this point. Haha, perfect for the year we've had. ;)

*The pattern will print out on 2 horizontal pages. They are made to overlap a bit to create the pattern. Match the star and you'll be good to go. No scaling or anything is necessary. If you'd like to trim off a thin sliver of paper to match the star up perfectly, you can. That's what I did. 

How to print out a PDF sewing pattern.
I trimmed off a thin slice of paper to match my star up perfectly.
How to prepare a PDF sewing pattern.
Cut along the line just like in grade school. ;)
PDF sewing pattern how to and info. Easy sewing project
Once it's cut, it'll resemble a plague mask!
Wide thick hair scarf headband for rockabilly gals. How to sew an easy headband.
I chose this fun atomic print cotton fabric. It's going to make the cutest retro hair scarf.
Next, wash, dry, and iron your fabric if you haven't already.

​What fabric(s) did you choose? Did you go with a solid color or a fun novelty print? 

​
Rockabilly retro vintage sewing pattern. Wide scarf for pinup hairstyles.
Use pattern weights to hold the fabric and pattern down while you trace.
  • Grab your scarf pattern piece and lay it on top of your folded fabric. Line up the folded edge of the fabric with the pattern side that says FOLD. You can do this with RST or WST, it won't make a difference for this pattern.
  • Use pattern weights to hold the piece down, while you trace out the shape. Use an air soluble pen or a chalk pen to trace. Cut along the lines.
  • Repeat steps for the other side. You are tracing an outer and inner piece of fabric for your hair scarf. Cut.
  • You should now have 2 pieces of fabric cut out.
Retro rockabilly atomic hair scarf
Trace the pattern onto your fabric.
sewing to the moon atomic sewing project for vintage and retro enthusiast. vintage aesthetic
Cut the piece out and set aside.
Vintage sewing pattern. retro vintage style inspired hair scarf for 50s hairstyle
Trace the second piece and cut. You could use the same fabric or a contrasting one.
Sewing to the moon. Free sewing pattern. Retro vintage rockabilly pinup style sewing pattern
  • Now take the pieces and place right sides together. Use pins or clips to hold them together.
  • Mark a 3" gap where the pattern piece indicates. This area will not be sewn so, you can turn the scarf out afterwards.
Easy sewing project for beginners, teens, retro style lovers
Match the pieces together and pin.
How to sew a scarf for your hair. Rosie the riveter rockabilly style
Pin or clip pieces together.
Picture
  • I took an air soluble pen to mark the pivot point on the scarf. This isn't necessary, but it helped. The pivot point is where the scarf gets narrower. 
  • Time to sew! Use a 2.5 or 3mm stitch length. 
  • Seam allowance is 1/4"
  • Go slow, this gets tricky at the pointy ends
how to sew a rosie the riveter scarf headband.
Go slow in the corner area. Stitch until you are 1/4" from the pointed end.
Easy retro sewing project. Rockabilly vintage girl.
Once you get to the point, lift your pressure foot, turn the scarf, then continue down the other side.
Viva las vegas sewing pattern for rockabilly weekend hair style
Continue sewing...
  • When you get to the pointy corners, leave the needle down, lift the pressure foot, and turn your fabric. If it's not quite at 1/4" mark, go back and hand crank a stitch or two. Continue sewing all the way around until you come to the 3 inch gap. Backstitch.
  • Clip your corners.
How to sew a rockabilly rosie the riveter head scarf.
Leave an opening to turn the scarf out.
how to sew a head scarf for viva las vegas rockabilly weekend
Clip the corners to take away the bulk. This will create nice sharp corners.
  • Time to turn the scarf out. Grab a chopstick or any other turning tool.
EZ point & turner tool for sewing tubes
I love my EZ point & turner tool.
Retro vintage sewing pattern
Using the blunt end, push and create a donut like effect. Then, gently pull the fabric down and around the chopstick.
Using a chopstick as a sewing turning tool
I love my chopstick too! Grab your chopstick for this part.
Using a chopstick to turn tubes out.
Push and pull gently, until the fabric goes through the opening. Repeat with the other end.
If you're using a chopstick or pencil, poke the blunt end into the pointed fabric corner. Slowly pull the fabric down around the chopstick until you can easily push it through to the gap opening. Repeat for the other side.

It should look like this once it's turned out! Huzzah! The rest is downhill from here.
How to sew an easy headband hair scarf pattern for vintage style rockabilly hair.
It'll look like this once it's turned out. Time to press it flat.
Iron time! 
  • Roll the seam out. Using your fingernail seems to help this process. You can also take the chopstick and slide it under the seams while pushing the seam out and open as well. It'll take some finagling, but it's well worth it in the end.
Iron as you sew. sewing a rockabilly weekend hair scarf
Press the seams flat.
Sewing pattern for vintage retro scarf.
I use the pointy end of a chopstick to push the seam out. This helps to iron it nice and flat.
Back to the sewing machine to topstitch the gap closed. 
  • Topstitch 1/8" from the edge, backstitching at the beginning and end. If you'd like to topstitch around the whole hairscarf, you can. 
  • Clip any loose threads.
  • Press the scarf again. And, you're done! 
how to close a gap in sewing
Topstitch the opening closed, 1/8" from the edge.
Using sewing snips for loose threads. Easy rockabilly sewing pattern
Clip any loose threads.
Rockabilly vintage retro hair style sewing pattern.
Ta-da! It's done. It's such a quick and easy sewing project. Now, go out and rock that Rockabilly hair!
To wear the scarf:
Place the wide part at the back of your head just covering your hairline. Pull the pointy ends upwards, covering the tops of your ears, and tie in a knot on top of your head. 

This is perfect for messy hair days and curly-haired girls too. To make it into a more formal look, pin curls on top of your head, tie this scarf up, and wear it with a pretty dress.
If you're going for a 40's style, you can pair the scarf with wide-legged trousers and a boxy button-up top. This hair scarf is for anyone looking for a quick and easy retro hairstyle! 
Retro 50s style rockabilly hairstyle scarf.
Wide at the back, narrow at the front. Perfect for casual vintage styled hair!
Rockabilly easy hairstyle sewing pattern.
The shape stays on your head throughout the day! Add a bobby pin on each side if it needs more support.
Viva las vegas hairstyle
Yep! I love this pattern!
So, what do you think of the pattern? It was easy right? Do you plan on making as many as you can for the summer? I wear my hair up most summer days and this thicker style is what I've been yearning for! Easy & cute hair... yes, please!!! 

If you make one or ten, please tag me on Instagram. I want to see them aallll! Use the hashtag #sewingtothemoonScarf
Let me know in the comments below if you've made this or plan to. I seriously can't tell you how overly excited this whole process made me. :D 

Thanks for all the love and support on social and here! Sewing people are the best people. 

​Happily sewing,

Annette

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Vintage retro pinup sewing hair scarf sewing pattern.
3 Comments

9/12/2019 0 Comments

Vintage Sewing notions and pattern

Vintage sewing finds. Notions and patterns Sewing to the Moon
My mama gave me a small bag of vintage sewing items she found while rummaging through the garage. She thought I might like them, and she was right, and I had to share. 
Vintage sewing notions sewing to the moon blog
Red lace seam binding. I use this for finishing a hem on a skirt usually.
Sewing to the moon blog vintage zippers picture
Vintage zippers. I prefer modern YKK ones but, these are pretty to look at.
Vintage sewing pattern
The backside of the butterick pattern
There were a few vintage zippers still in the packages. I love the info on the zipper packaging. I love the 70s pattern too. The pattern insert is so easy and simple. Why can't patterns be as simple as they were back then? The back of the envelope is easy to read as well. 
Sewing to the moon blog
Butterick vintage pattern 4828

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    Author

    Hi there, I'm Annette and I love eating and sewing. I usually have a cup of coffee or tea with me, but not next to my machine because I'd probably spill it. I am the reason we can't have nice things.

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