Playful Butterick B6354 Bustier top

Happy mad March!! And, I say mad because it's nutty out there. Hope you are staying safe and healthy and have enough toilet paper! Ha! Whew, what a world we live in right now, huh? This month has not gone as planned for anyone, I'm sure. We were supposed to leave for a family cruise, but that was cancelled along with school, life, and everything else. 

When life gives you lemons....
I'm enjoying the time with my kids instead of having to drop off and pickup from school. We even have enough TP, we luckily bought ours before the crazy hit the fan. LOL

I worked on this Butterick top all week and after trial and error, I finally got the sizing correct and finished it. For the cruise. That was cancelled. Ha! 

I wanted to spend more time on the boning portion of this pattern for you guys. Do you search for tutorials before you make something new? It's nice to get a feel for things before getting your head in the game, right? I didn't see any in depth tutorials on how to insert boning. I wanted to spend time on the boning portion with this post. The pattern is pretty easy and straight forward otherwise.

This was the FBA that I ended up not needing.

Pattern time

• 1 yard of fabric + lining. 
• 7" Separating zipper
• Thread
• 2 1/5" yards of boning. I opted for plastic this time because this top will be used during warmer weather and I didn't want the bulk of the stainless steel boning. I grabbed 2 packs from my local craft shop. Each package only has 2 yards.
• 2 Buttons
• All your sewing notions and machine
• Scissors for cutting plastic boning that aren't your fabric ones.
• Buttonhole foot 
• Zipper foot
• Hand sewing needle and thread

According to the pattern envelope, I needed a size 14. I also made an FBA (full bust adjustment) after my first muslin seemed snug. Well, it ended up being huuuge. No, I couldn't just take in a little at the side seams. This was big enough to fit the movie snacks, popcorn, sodas and my kids!! Face-palm!

But at this point, I accepted the challenge. Game on!

"It's not sewing unless you use your seam ripper."

I unpicked the bodice, lining, and boning casings. I then re-cut to a size 14 minus the FBA. Sewed it up and it was still big. I could fit the snacks only, this time.
So, I unpicked it again and cut a size 12, no FBA. Size 12 fit good enough. I might try a size 10 next time.

After you decide which size you're going with, trace your pattern off. Grade between sizes if needed. 
Transfer all the markings onto your pieces, especially the lining pieces. You'll need accurate placement lines to position your boning.

Sew your darts on all the pieces.
Pattern instructions always have you make one thing at a time, but I sew all the darts on the outers and linings at the same time. It makes more sense in my head to do it this way, but you do whatever feels comfortable for you. 

Darts are marked and ready to be sewn.

After the darts are sewn, place the 2 front pieces together, RST (right sides together) matching notches and dart seams. Sew from the waist up. 

Then, grab the front band pieces. Sew together and fold in half, if you haven't already.
You're going to attach this piece to the bodice you just sewed. 

TIPS

• I cut into the bands raw edge after it was folded to make the sewing process easier. It helped me. You can do this if you want or not. I clipped into the raw edge 1/4".
• After I sewed the band on, I stitched in the ditch of the center seam to keep it from flopping around. I didn't like the look until I did the top stitching. You can see the photo below, I didn't stitch it down at this point. It was sloppy looking. The first photo was after I stitched it down. See the difference?

Insert your separating zipper. WOW! This was my first time using a separated zipper and boy was it easy. You're making a lapped zip, so be sure to press one seam 1/2" and the other 5/8". The left side laps over the right side, hiding the zipper in true vintage fashion. Follow the pattern directions for the insertion.

Sew the side pieces onto the bodice, matching notches. Sew from the waist up. Easy peasy.

​Your top should look the photo below.

The bodice should resemble something like this. Take your time sewing the center front seam, those bust darts are difficult to match up.

Now onto the lining part with the boning. Take a deep breath, you go this!

You want to measure and cut the strips of boning/ casing before you sew it in. 

If you're having a difficult time with the boning being curled, steam the strips using your iron. Use the cotton setting with plenty of steam, and make sure the plastic is covered with the casing or a cloth. You don't want to melt the plastic. Wiggle the piece up and down, similar how you would with a false eyelash. They should lie flat.

Measure the placement line length with the boning casing and use chalk or a pen to mark.

Cut where you marked with your chalk. You can see my mark in yellow chalk.

Sew the casing strips onto the bodice lining, leaving 5/8" seam allowance between the casing end and fabric edge.
Pin in place to keep them in order. Start on the top, backstitch and sew down one line. Backstitch. Then, sew on the other side. Backstitch and sew the top short edge and pivot back to go down the long edge on the left side. So you're making a backwards "7".
You need to leave the bottom open to insert the boning piece. Follow along the stitching line, it doesn't have to 100% perfect, just try to sew a straight line. 

The top of the casing gets closed.

Leave the bottom open for inserting the boning.

Preparing your plastic boning.
You don't want sharp edges that will poke you, or worse poke through your new garment. 

Trim the plastic boning with a pair of scissors, not your fabric scissors. 
*Extra tip: use a permanent marker to number your boning pieces. Start from the left or right. This number system kept me from going insane ;) Slightly...

1. Trim both ends to create a point.

2. Then cut point off.

3. Your boning end should resemble something like this. It doesn't have to be perfect. But, you want it as rounded as you can get.

4. Insert newly trimmed end into the casing. repeat for the other end.

If your boning is rounded still, steam the strips and they flatten out nicely.

After all the boning is inserted, stitch the open ends closed. The pattern doesn't say to do this, but it's an extra precaution.

Match the bodice and the lining RST and sew across the top and across the bottom. Leave the sides open for turning out. Hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape.

Sew the neck strap and mark the spots for the button holes.
Try the top on and see if you need to move the markings to fit your body.

Check your manual for instructions on buttonholes if you need a refresher. 

Place the buttonhole markings and make them using your buttonhole foot.

Hand sew the buttons into place and you're done! Yay!!

I've started making one in zombie pinup fabric. Yes, I will wear it year round. My inner goth gal can't resist. ;) I made a skirt with the zombie pinup fabric, so I'll wear them together. 

I have a few other high waisted pants I plan on wearing the black one with.

​

Have you made this top? Is it in your pattern stash, waiting patiently for you to open the envelope up? I say make it! It was really easy, once I got the sizing figured out. 
 
Share in the comments below if you plan to make this or another piece from the pattern. I made the bolero to match with this dress. The bolero is super easy too!

As always, thanks for hanging out with me. Keep your seam ripper sharpened and your bobbins full!

XO,
​Annette