Sewing the Bombshell Swimsuit

My, oh my, the summer has flown by. I cannot believe we're almost halfway through August. Someone stop the clock, please!! 

We've spent plenty of time in our backyard this summer. Sprinklers, popsicles, and slip n slides, takin' it back old school style.

This month started with me participating in the #BRAugust challenge, hosted by Ying from Tailor Made Shop. She has a website, a blog, and an Etsy shop. I purchased bra making kits from her in the past. She is a sewist who creates and sells beautiful things for the lingerie sewing world. Yay for bra making!! Although, for the challenge, I did not make a bra. I opted to make a swimsuit. I've never made a swimsuit and I needed a new challenge.

First, I purchased Closet Core's (formerly Closet Case) Bombshell Swimsuit PDF pattern online. The swimsuit comes in a PDF only. I love the style and have several RTW swimsuits that look the same as View A. I had some mint green lycra and knew I wanted to use it for my new swimsuit. Minty green 50's Bombshell, yes, please!

Okay, so you know the PDF drill: print out the pattern, tape everything together like a madwoman, and cut, cut, cut. Decide on the size you want to cut out first. I went with a size 12 and I had just enough fabric. The measurements were spot on with my body, no need for grading. Yay! 

IKEA was sold out of desk legs but, I purchased the tabletops anyway. So, my sewing space was a hot mess. Just ignore all of the scenery behind me in the photo. 

Oh, do you see the top I'm wearing? You can read all about that here. There is some gaping, but I still wear it. 

I'm cutting out my PDF pattern pieces after I printed and taped everything.

Follow along as I sew a 50's style swimsuit

Layout your fabric and place your pattern pieces on top. Be sure to follow the distance of greatest stretch arrows or DOGS. I cut some pieces with scissors but found the rotary cutter and mat was easier. The fabric is slippery, so choose your favorite method.
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I only had one yard of 60" wide fabric so, I couldn't do the ruched backside. I had to make it work with the amount I had. #sewingwin

You'll have to ignore all the wrinkles in every picture. I didn't press them out and I apologize. I'm usually a stickler for getting out the wrinkles. If you squint, you might not be able to see the wrinkles. 

Materials Needed:

• Stretch needles (Yes, you need these)
• Polyester thread
• Rubber or swimwear elastic- you cannot use regular cotton elastic. It will die in the salt and chlorine water. 
• Swimwear fabric which is a blend of lycra and spandex. I buy my knits online from Girlcharlee.com They have a swimwear section coming soon. It's usually in the dancewear fabric section at Joann.
• Lining fabric (must be swimwear lining)
• Set of foam cups (optional) 
• Sewing machine that can sew zigzag stitches
• Serger (optional)
• Rotary cutter and mat, scissors, measuring tape, ruler, and all your usual sewing notions
• Water-soluble pen
• Clips or ball point pins for pinning layers together
• PDF pattern of the Bombshell bathing suit

Make sure you practice stitching on your serger and or sewing machine first. My differential feed was on, on my serger. Below is a picture of the serger settings I used. I have a Brother Lock 1143DW which I believe is similar to the 1034D. Even if you have this machine, test stitch on a swatch piece first. Every machine is different. I mainly used my serger but did have to use the sewing machine to make gathering stitches, basting stitches, and to sew on the elastic. 

Settings I used to make the Bombshell swimsuit with my serger.

Front of the swimsuit with ruching and knot piece sewn on.

First, you need to make gathering stitches along the sides for the ruching. I opted for the non-ruched backside because I was limited on fabric. You need to make gathering stitches for the front knot area later on. When you do attach the tie knot, make sure you sew it onto the right side of the bathing suit. I did it on the wrong side the first time around and had to unpick it. Face-palm.

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Back pieces and lining serged together at the sides and then center back. I did not do a ruched back, I was working with the amount of fabric I had on hand.

Once the front piece and back pieces are sewn together, set them aside.

You will then sew the lining to the front crotch piece. It starts to look more like a swimsuit at this point. Then, sew the 2 crotch pieces together per the instructions. 

Clip the crotch piece to the lining. You're going to baste the 2 pieces together all the way around with a narrow zigzag.

I've basted the crotch piece to the lining. I also sewed my darts before this step.

So far, so good... I ordered rubber elastic and foam cups from Etsy shops and had to wait for those to arrive.

So, I decided to jump ahead and sew what I could until I needed those pieces. I made the straps, darts, and tie knot. 

Crotch area is coming together.

Hooray! It looks like an actual swimsuit.

This is the knot tie piece.

Elastic Time

You put the elastic in the legs partially so that they will be enclosed neatly and discreetly. The recommended zigzag stitch is on the pattern. I tried sewing elastic with my serger once and that was a mess and a half! So, back to my sewing machine for this part. 

Measure the leg opening length. Cut your rubber elastic the same length.

Sew the elastic onto the lining close, but not on the edge for 3". Then, fold over and top stitch an inch or two. Leave the elastic dangling for now. Ignore the purple thread I had in my bobbin. Oops!

Sewing foam cups to your Swimwear

Here's where I went rogue: 

1.  I attached a piece of elastic to form a shelf bra. Zigzag over the elastic the length of where you basted the lining to the front crotch piece. 
2. I added the foam cups at this point. I am a little familiar with foam cups in other garments, so I did my own thing. Place them where you want them positioned on the lining and pin. Stitch them onto the lining  following their circular or triangular shape, using a zigzag stitch.
3. Cutaway the excess fabric- you're supposed to do this so the fit is better. And then zigzag over the foam cups again. You don't need to do it a second time, but I wanted to be safe. Ha!

Elastic is the length of the front piece's width. Don't stretch the elastic, sew with 1:1 ratio.

Pin in place and zigzag stitch the foam cups in place. Notice the left one is done, the right isn't stitched on yet.

The cup is sewn on the wrong side of the lining, where it will touch your skin. Notice the dart.

Cut the excess lining fabric. This ensures a better fit.

There are a few gathers, but they don't bother me enough to re stitch them. You be the judge if little gathers happen.

My second row of zigzag stitching around the cups. This is optional, I wanted a cleaned look inside.

Finishing it up

Onto the next portion of the swimsuit.

Sew the gathering stitches for the knot tie, on the front of the swimsuit. This is barfingly easy. ;-) No photo though, sorry.

Use clips to attach the front to the back pieces matching the notches. I repositioned my clips, to clip the layers together. So many layahs (you gotta say it in a Boston accent). 

After that, take the swimsuit and make a sandwich. The instructions are easy enough on the PDF. You stick the back and front together, then swoop the front lining piece up and over. Serge the side seams together. Now is the time to try it on. And, fingers crossed it fits! 

Clip or pin the layers together. Get ready to serge the side seams.

Serge the sides up. Easy peasy. Make sure you get all the layers.

Next up, finishing the leg holes. Start at on area where the elastic is dangling and attach it to the edge. There's a math measurement to get the correct stretch on each side. Follow their instructions and you'll be golden. 

Zigzag the elastic to the edge following around the whole opening.

It will look like this once it's done.

For the skirt, you will measure a piece of elastic the length from side seam to side seam. Zigzag this on without stretching the elastic. Sewing 1:1 ratio.

Next, turn the elastic over and topstitch all around the leg openings and skirt to enclose everything. Start on one side seam and zigzag around the whole opening. 
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You're almost done!! Woohoo!!!!

Look how pretty it is.

Time to serge the top sweetheart neckline and lining together.

​Then add the elastic and fold over and topstitch. 

Make sure to get both layers. You can see where I missed both layers the first time. It is serged with pink thread. Fold the elastic over and topstitch just like you did with the leg opening and skirt.

Attach the knot tie by stitching in the ditch. Careful with all the ruching.

Your View A bombshell should look like this. It's 99% done. We just need to attach the straps. Can I get a Whoop, Whoop!?

Adding the straps

Grab your straps and get ready to zigzag them onto the swimsuit. 

I tried my suit on and decided where exactly I wanted my straps to be positioned. Clipped them in place and stitched.

I added a second row of stitches just to be extra cautious. I am not part of the itty bitty... committee. ;-) We don't need any free shows.

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Use the medium zigzag stitch to attach the strap to the swimsuit.

See the 2 rows of stitches. This is 100% optional.

Hooray! We're done. See how easy it was to make a swimsuit! I learned a lot along the way and you bet I'm going to make a few more. I have some fun fabrics picked out from a few different Etsy shops. I better get crackin' if I want to parade around in my backyard, in all of them. 

I didn't do the halter top straps. I tried on my swimsuit and had my daughter help me mark where I wanted the straps to be attached at the back. I always wear halter strapped swimsuits and they kill my neck after a few hours. So, I was pretty stoked to be able to attach the straps in a criss-cross fashion on the back! Yay for comfort and holdability!!

Criss Cross back straps are going to be so much more comfortable. I'm so excited!!

Front view. Yay!! So fun.

Now I just need to find a pool to hang out in. 50's Bombshell style. 
Are you going to make a swimsuit or have you ever thought about making one? I think this is right up there with bra making. It's so fun and a lot easier than you'd think.  And... gasp, it might even be cheaper!! 
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Let me know in the comments below what you think about swimsuit making.