Simplicity 8654 Vintage-style Shorts

​Summer is here, and do you know what that means? It's time to tackle your warm-weather vintage sewing patterns. The weather has been cooler lately, but shorts are still a necessity. The Simplicity vintage-style pattern 8654 is a perfect summer sewing pattern. It has swooshy shorts, a cute top, and a fun skirt. I chose to sew the shorts. I have a pair of RTW shorts that are similar, but no longer fit. So, I decided to make my own. The shorts have minimal pattern pieces (4) and take about 2 yards of fabric, more or less depending on your size. Let's get started!

Cut + Trace

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Find your size on the pattern. The style is very forgiving in the hips, so I went with my waist measurement only.

Cut the pattern or trace it onto paper. Transfer all your markings. This, is especially important for the pleats. 

​Cut out the fabric pieces and interface your waistband. 

Sew, sew, sew!

Match the front pieces together. Pin and sew along the curve. 

Sew the inseam curve.

Fold the pleats, matching the marked lines, and sew. Do this with both of the front pieces. Then, repeat the same steps for the back pieces. The pattern instructions were fairly easy for these shorts. No issues to write home (or you) about.

Sew your pleats. Make sure you marked the fabric pieces well.

The front should look like this before you topstitch the pleats in place. Top stitching keeps the pleats formed nicely.

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Your pleats should look like the ones above. Topstitch after you sew them to keep them secure. 

Flip over the shorts, and there will be two rows of stitching, like the photo below. So far, pretty easy, right?

After top stitching, the inside will look like this. 2 rows of stitching.

Grab your two pocket pieces. Sew along the edges on a front piece and again on a back piece. This pattern only has one pocket because of the side zipper. If you're feeling brave, you could easily add a second side pocket and insert the zipper in the back seam instead.

Sewing is all about customization. :D

I didn't love how they have you sew the pocket. But, note to self, next time sew it up how I would regularly sew an inseam pocket. 

Sew your inseam pocket following the pattern instructions.

Only 1 pocket is going in, on this pattern.

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Zipper time! This pattern calls for a lapped zipper, which is a true vintage style zipper. I am somewhat new to the lapped zipper, as I've only been sewing them for 2 or so years. I'm a huge fan! They take minimal effort and go in pretty easily, with a few tips and tricks. 

I use a strip of 1" interfacing for all of my zippers. It helps stiffen up the fabric, and the zipper looks nicer after it is sewn in. 

Press the right side under 1/2". Pin the fabric right next to the zipper teeth. Sew, using a zipper foot. 

Then, press the left side under 5/8". I close the zipper and pin the fabric to the zipper tape. Be sure to barely cover the right side stitches. Unzip, then sew. 

Inserting a lapped zipper. Press the right side with a 1/2" seam allowance. Then, pin the right side of the zipper tape right up against the fabric fold.

Close up view. The fold is right along the zipper teeth. Use a zipper foot and sew in place.

Press the left side 5/8" under. Then, pin the zipper to the fabric. Make sure you overlap to cover the stitching on the right side just a smidge.

​Time for some waistband action. I sewed a straight size 18 for the shorts and used the size 18 waistband pattern piece, but the waistband was too short. So, I added an extra piece of fabric to insure the waist band was long enough. I've noticed with a lot of patterns that the waistband always falls short of the skirt, shorts, or pants. ?? Maybe I'm broken, but does this happen to you?

It was an easy fix, luckily. Just make a note of it when you make these shorts. 

Pin and sew the waistband to the shorts, making sure to match notches and seams.

See the seam where I had to add extra fabric? Nobody will notice except me. ;)

Close up view of the waistband. Attach to the shorts. Pin, then sew.

​After sewing the waistband to the shorts, flip the raw edge over to enclose the raw edges of the shorts. The band will enclose them. 

Pin from the outside, right along the seam line, catching the inner fold with the pins. This, is my most favorite way of sewing a waistband. It goes quickly and has a clean finish. 

Fold the edge over to the inside. Pin from the outside making sure the inside edge is just a smidge longer. Sew.

Pin around the whole waistband. Start on one end and sew the entire waistband.

It will look like this. Nice and neat.

​Time to hem your new shorts. You can turn the raw edge under 1/4" and then under again, like the pattern instructions say. Or, serge the raw edge and turn under once and sew. I prefer to do it this way most times. It is quick and easy, and is great for pants or shorts. 

Hem your shorts. You can turn them under, then under again. Or, serge the raw edge and sew.

Add a label in the back of the shorts. The front looks very similar to the back, so this little addition helps when it's time to get dressed. If you don't have labels, add a fun piece of grosgrain ribbon. 

Add a cute label inside on the back. These shorts look similar on the front and back. Attach a piece of ribbon if you don't have any labels.

Don't forget to add your buttonhole and button. I opted for a fun contrasting pink one. I love my colorful coral zipper too. It mostly matches. Ha! 

If you haven't already, add your button and buttonhole.

End Thoughts

The shorts fit great! I went down a size in my waist because I know the big 4 patterns usually add a lot of ease. My waist is 33-34", and I sewed the size that had a 32" waist. They fit perfectly and have a little wiggle room. The fabric I used is a rayon challis. In my experience, rayon shrinks over time with the first few washings. If it shrinks, I'm good. If not, I'm good. Either way, I'm happy with the size I chose.
The fabric is a Gertie designed fabric she used to have at Joann stores. It's almost a decade old. I made a Rita with it. The leftover fabric was from the yardage I bought all that time ago. 
Funny enough, I did not have a top that matched my new shorts. Yes, I have black tops, but I wanted some color. I made a solid bright pink Rita to wear with them. I know, so bizarre for me to sew solid fabrics. Because the shorts were so busy, I wanted some simplicity on top. 


Next time I make these shorts, I'm going to play with the pleats. I think I'll fold the fabric differently to give them a different look. Maybe a large box pleat? 

Secret Shorts! Looks like a skirt, but it's not.

Thanks for following along. Now, go grab the pattern and get started on your summer sewing. 

Are you excited to make these shorts? Have you made them before? Would you make them again?

​Happy stitching,
Annette