Playful Butterick B6354 Bustier

Happy March!! Hope you are staying safe and healthy, and have enough toilet paper! Ha! Never thought I'd say that. Whew, what a world we live in right now. This month has not gone as planned for anyone, I'm sure. We were supposed to leave for a family cruise, but that was cancelled along with school, life, and everything else. 

When life gives you lemons, get the peeler and enjoy the process.

I'm enjoying the time with my kids instead of having to drop off and pickup from school. We even have enough toilet paper. We luckily bought ours before the crazy hit the fan. LOL

I worked on this Butterick top all week and after trial and error, I finally got the sizing correct and finished it. For the cruise. That was cancelled. :/

I wanted to spend more time on the boning portion of this pattern for you guys. Do you search for tutorials before you make something new? It's nice to get a feel for things before getting your head in the game, right? I didn't see any in depth tutorials on how to insert boning. I wanted to spend time on the boning portion with this post. The pattern is pretty easy and straight forward otherwise.

This was the FBA that I ended up not needing. Ha!

Pattern time

• 1 yard of fabric + lining. 

• 7" Separating zipper

• Thread

• 2 1/5" yards of boning. I opted for plastic this time because this top will be used during warmer weather and I didn't want the bulk of the stainless steel boning. I grabbed 2 packs from my local craft shop. Each package only has 2 yards.

• 2 Buttons

• All your sewing notions and machine

• Scissors for cutting plastic boning that aren't your fabric ones.

• Buttonhole foot 

• Zipper foot

• Hand-sewing needle and thread

According to the pattern envelope, I needed a size 14. I also made an FBA (full bust adjustment) after my first muslin seemed snug. Well, it ended up being huuuge. No, I couldn't just take in a little at the side seams. This was big enough to fit the movie snacks, popcorn, sodas, and my kids!! Face-palm!

But at this point, I accepted the challenge. Game on!

"It's not sewing unless you use your seam ripper." - Me.

I unpicked the bodice, lining, and boning casings. I then re-cut to a size 14 minus the FBA. Sewed it up and it was still big. I could fit the snacks only, this time.

So, I unpicked it again and cut a size 12, no FBA. Size 12 fit well enough. I might try a size 10 next time.

After you decide which size you're going with, trace your pattern off. Grade between sizes if needed. 

Transfer all the markings onto your pieces, especially the lining pieces. You'll need accurate placement lines to position your boning.

Sew your darts on all the pieces.

Pattern instructions always have you make one thing at a time, but I sew all the darts on the outer and lining at the same time. It makes more sense in my head to do it this way, but you do whatever feels comfortable for you. 

After the darts are sewn, place the 2 front pieces together, RST (right sides together) matching notches and dart seams. Sew from the waist up. 

Then, grab the front band pieces. Sew together and fold in half, if you haven't already.

You're going to attach this piece to the bodice you just sewed. 

TIPS

• I cut into the band’s raw edge after it was folded to make the sewing process easier. It helped me. You can do this if you want or not. I clipped into the raw edge 1/4".

• After I sewed the band on, I stitched in the ditch of the center seam to keep it from flopping around. I didn't like the look until I did the top stitching. You can see the photo below, I didn't stitch it down at this point. It was sloppy looking. The first photo was after I stitched it down. See the difference?

Insert your separating zipper. WOW! This was my first time using a separated zipper and boy was it easy. You're making a lapped zip, so be sure to press one seam 1/2" and the other 5/8". The left side laps over the right side, hiding the zipper in true vintage fashion. Follow the pattern directions for the insertion.

Sew the side pieces onto the bodice, matching notches. Sew from the waist up. Easy peasy.

Your top should look like the photo below.

Now onto the lining part with the boning. Take a deep breath, you go this!

You want to measure and cut the strips of boning/ casing before you sew it in. 

If you're having a difficult time with the boning being curled, steam the strips using your iron. Use the cotton setting with plenty of steam, and make sure the plastic is covered with the casing or a cloth. You don't want to melt the plastic. Wiggle the piece up and down, similar to how you would with a false eyelash. They should lie flat.

Measure the length, mark on casing with chalk or pen.

Cut along the marked line.

Sew the casing strips onto the bodice lining, leaving a 5/8" seam allowance between the casing end and the fabric edge.

Pin in place to keep them in order. Start on the top, backstitch, and sew down one line. Backstitch. Then, sew on the other side. Backstitch and sew the top short edge and pivot back to go down the long edge on the left side. So you're making a backward 7.

You need to leave the bottom open to insert the boning piece. Follow along the stitching line, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect, just try to sew a straight line.

Top of the casing is sewn closed.

Leave the bottom open.

Preparing your plastic boning.

You don't want sharp edges that will poke you, or worse poke through your new garment. 

Trim the plastic boning with a pair of scissors, not your fabric scissors.

Bonus tip: use a permanent marker to number your boning pieces. Start from the left or right. This number system kept me from going insane. ;) Slightly...

Cut each end to form a point.

Trim off the tip to form a rounded edge.

It should resemble something like this.

Insert into casing, trimmed end first.

If your boning is rounded still, steam the strips, and they flatten out nicely.

After all the boning is inserted, stitch the open ends closed. The pattern doesn't say to do this, but it's an extra precaution.

Match the bodice and the lining RST and sew across the top and across the bottom. Leave the sides open for turning out. Hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape.

Sew the neck strap and mark the spots for the button holes.

Try the top on and see if you need to move the markings to fit your body.

Check your manual for instructions on buttonholes if you need a refresher.

Match the button holes on the strap to the pattern piece.

Place the buttonhole markings and make them using your buttonhole foot.

Hand-sew or machine-sew the buttons into place, and you're done! Yay!!

Front View

Back View

I've started making one in zombie pinup fabric. Yes, I will wear it year-round. My inner goth gal can't resist. ;) I made a gathered skirt with the zombie pinup fabric, so I'll wear them together. Give me matchy-matchy any day!

I have a few other high-waisted pants I plan on wearing the black one with.

Have you made this top? Is it in your pattern stash? I say make it! It was really easy after I got the sizing figured out. 

 Share in the comments below if you plan to make this or another piece from the pattern. I made the bolero to match with this dress. The bolero is super duper easy!

As always, thanks for hanging out with me. Keep your seam ripper sharp and your bobbins full!

XO,

Annette

Butterick Dress Pattern B5882

Butterick B5882 dress pattern

I had this fancy-looking fabric lying around and used it for the Butterick 5882 dress pattern. It turned out well enough but, next time, I'll make some adjustments.

My family and I are going on a cruise this spring and I needed a fancy dress. I wanted to make my own dress. Cue the Butterick pattern that I've had in my pattern arsenal for a while. I had yards and yards of fabric left over from a Halloween project. 

I decided to make the B5882 dress because I had nothing to lose. My fabric wasn't anything I had an attachment to so, I just dove in! I did make a bodice muslin first because I almost always have to do an FBA. But, no FBA was needed this time. Shock and awe!

Let's get sewing.

Supply List:

• Sewing machine and all that jazz

• 14" zipper

• Boning 

• Interfacing

• Fabric and lining

• Patience

• Grosgrain ribbon

• Hook and eye set

• Matching threads

• Butterick Pattern B5882

Instructions have arrows, but it was still confusing

Pins, clips, tape, use whatever you can to hold the folds.

After folding is done, the rest is easy.

I made the muslin, tried it on, and it fit! Hooray! Next was the cutting of the fashion fabric and lining. I went in head first and full of confidence. 

The muslin fit pretty well. I suggest making a muslin for this dress. If not only for the fit, but how the shelf bodice will go together.

That whole folding thing was super simple with muslin fabric. Not so much with Taffeta. It was fiddly and didn't press how I expected. So, in the end, I went with however the fabric behaved and called it a day. You'll notice in my photos at the end that the strap still doesn't lay flat. 

Make sure you stitch and pivot at the exact dots for the strap. It'll cause issues down the road if you don't. *I learned my lesson.

Press the pleats in place using a tailors ham. It helps to shape the pleats.

Pleat and pin/clip.

Fold and press, then pin.

It is a little tricky, go slow, and take your time.

Sew one cup at a time. This part was pretty easy. Go slowly and follow the curve.

Boning Time

I had never used boning before, but have made my own bras. In the future, I want to dabble in corsetry for myself. I own a few corsets and love them. I love how they squish everything into place and keep it there. I didn't buy the pre-cased plastic boning as the pattern recommended. Instead, I ordered yardage of spiral steel boning from Etsy. I also ordered boning casing, and the little metal caps that go on the ends so you don't get poked. I was intimidated, but it ended up being pretty darn easy! 

Excuse the lighting, I did the boning part at night. No pun intended ;)

Wire cutters, casing, spiral steel boning, tips.

After sewing the casing, I inserted the boning.

Zipper time! 

Grab that zipper and foot. The pattern calls for a lapped zipper which is similar to a regular zip, but the measurements are changed up a little bit.  
You want the left seam to be smaller than the right seam so the fabric folds over and conceals the zipper. I always love a lapped zipper because they're easy and a nod to vintage style.

Make sure to use a zipper foot.

The left side is sewn right at the zipper teeth. The right side will have more fabric so that when the zipper is closed, the teeth are hidden. 


See how the fabric is folded over when I stitch the left side for the lapped zipper.

The left side of the fabric is folded over. This is the lapped zipper and my favorite type of zipper.

I didn't take any more photos after the zipper. All that was left to do was the skirt. Follow the directions and match the notches. Hand sew the lining to the zipper and hand stitch the bodice lining to the skirt lining.

Let the dress hang for 24 hours. Sew the hem by sewing a 1/4" seam line around both the lining and dress. Fold up the edge and press. Then, fold it up again and stitch. You'll have 3 layers. You're basically creating a narrow hem.

I added the waist stay last- I completely forgot about it until I saw the ribbon I had cut, and draped over my sewing cart. Haha!! 
I tacked the ribbon at the waist with a few stitches where the boning seams were. Sewed on the hook and eye and it was done! Time to take all the pretty pictures.

Ta-da! Dress is finished. Ignore my face. LOL

If you've made this dress or do make it, please tag me! I want to see your fabric choice and version. This dress taught me some new things and I really enjoyed making it. Aside from the pesky folding of those cups, it was fairly easy. Don't be intimidated by the boning like I was. 

​As always, thanks for reading and hanging out. 
​
Happy Stitching,
Annette

I'm going to hand-sew a few hidden stitches to keep the neckline strap down. It likes to pop up.

This is the back view. It's a form fitting dress but, it's comfortable.

Wanted to show the gold lining. The whole dress reminds me of Mardi Gras. If I ever go, I'll be sure to pack this beauty. :D

New Look pattern 6446 Romper

This New Look 6446 pattern is my favorite romper to sew. It's easy and fun to sew. Plus, it has options to make the legs different lengths. Jumpers or rompers ares great seasonal transition pieces. Add a sweater and some chucks, and you're set. 

This is half sew-along and half review. It's not a complete step-by-step. Hopefully, you'll get some useful info out of it though.

Most of the summer was spent enjoying beautiful weather, great friends, resort pools, and camping.

My friend stayed with us for a week and we squeezed in some sewing time. And, the jumper was finished at another friend’s house while I visited her. Ha!! Yes, having sewing friends in real life is amazing.

Grab the New Look Pattern 6446. You won't regret it! There are tons of tutorials on this pattern online and on YouTube. 

I chose to use this fabric that I've had since 2015. Yikes!

I bought 3 yards at Joann Fabrics in the clearance section. It's an extremely soft, thick, satin-like fabric. I used a 16" invisible zipper and coordinating white thread. 

I used my high bust measurement for the bodice. My waist measurement almost always gets blended out because I'm not a wasp. I used size 14 for the top and blended out to a size 16 for the waist, and back down to 14 for the hips.  This worked well for me.

Make sure you cut out everything and throw it all in a pile on the floor until you're ready to sew! It's the only way to do it. ;) Oh and take a blurry pic too.

There were quite a few pieces, but it was pretty simple to cut everything. I used the actual pattern pieces instead of tracing them onto pattern paper. I know, I know, bad sewing move.

Sew the darts and assemble bodice pieces. Do this for the bodice and lining as well.

The pockets were easy to make. It's a one-piece, pattern piece that you fold together and sew into the waist area.

The inside of the pocket.

Wah-la, beautiful pocket.

Does anyone else get excited over a perfect crotch seam? LOL

Sew up the pant legs following the pattern directions. Inseam first, then outer legs. It’ll look like a big floppy mess at this point.

Tuck the bodice inside the pant legs at the waist, right sides together. I used clips and they seemed to hold all the slippery layers more easily. I don’t know what this mystery fabric is, but I love it! (I think it’s a cotton sateen, but I’m not 100% sure.)

Cut the straps.

Sew the straps. I like the seam being down the middle. Topstitch them to hold in place.

Cut and sew the straps. Baste them and sew them into the bodice sandwiched between the lining and bodice pieces. Add the hem, and you're done!

**The zipper gets added before the straps are attached, but I sewed the zipper at a friend’s house, so no pictures. 

I've worn this a few times already, it washes up beautifully, and it's comfy to wear. I need to get yards and yards of fabric to make 20 more of these! Ha!

Grab the pattern, get some fabric, and make one or ten. You won’t regret it, I promise!


Have you made this pattern? Let me know in the comments below. Tag me on Instagram so I can see your version of the New Look pattern 6446.

Happy Stitching,

Annette