DIY: Sweatshirt Into Tote Bag

When I was coming up with a title for this post, I kept thinking of the word Upcycle. But, I don't see it used as much anymore. Do you still use the word upcycle? I opted for the DIY term instead. Anywho, onto the post.
Have your kids outgrown some of their favorite clothes? They can't stay little forever, right? Maybe they have something they used to love that no longer fits. You might have a bin of clothing that you don't want to donate or don't know how to put to use. 

A friend asked me if I'd make a bag from her daughter’s old hoodie. It was a rare occasion and I said yes! I was in a rut with my sewing and thought creating something new would pull me out of it. It worked! The result is super cute and useful, too. That's a win in my book!

If you have an old hoodie packed away that you don't want to get rid of, I have the perfect project for you!

I scoured the interwebs looking for a hoodie up-cycle project and found nothing. I was pretty surprised nothing showed up. There were tons of T-shirt projects, but nothing for sweatshirts. So, I went head first into this challenge. After reading this, I hope you'll pull out those beloved hoodies and put them to use. 

Supply List

1. Old Hoodie without a zipper

2. Ruler

3. Rotary cutter and scissors

4. Chalk marker or disappearing ink pen

5. Sewing machine

6. Serger (nice but, not necessary)

7. Clips (pins work but, it's a struggle because the fabric is thick)

8. The usual sewing notions

9. A little creativity ;)

First, you'll want to measure the front. You need to figure out the size of the square or rectangle your bag will be. Use chalk or pen to mark it, and cut. I used as much of the sweatshirt as I could because it was a child's hoodie. I decided to leave the bottom ribbing on the sweatshirt to act as the bottom base for the bag. 
​
Next, cut off the side seam allowances to remove bulk. Cut apart the hood, cuffs, and sleeves and set them aside. 

Cut through side seams, remove them.

Cut off sleeve cuffs, set aside for another use..

Open sleeves, lay flat. These will become your handles.

Measure your sleeve length, you'll want to use as much of this as possible for bag detailing. Cut from the shoulder to the wrist, it has the least amount of stretch. I used as much width as I could get away with. 

Rectangle for bag details.

Cut each sleeve strip the same length and width. Pin together, wrong sides together. These will get sewn to the bag top, to add height and some detail. You can baste the edges together before sewing if you'd like but, it's not necessary.

Pin/clip the strips to the top of the bag front and back. Don't sew these on yet.

Cut off the seam at the front of the hood.

Measure and cut 3" or larger strips.

Pin wrong sides together. Sew. Turn. These are the handles.

Take the hood and cut off the seam around the face opening. Both layers should separate and you'll have 2 hood pieces. Take one and measure and cut a 3" wide piece using the whole length. Do this with the second hood. These will be your bag handles.

Clip the handles inwards 2-3" from the sides. Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance. Do this on the front and back pieces. 

There wasn’t a method to my madness. I didn't make this bag in any particular order. 

Sew all the layers with a 1/2" seam allowance.

If you have a serger, serge over the raw edge.

I used a 1/4" seam but, you should use a 1/2" if you can. I was working with a small hoodie and decided to use a small seam allowance where I could. 

If you have a serger, serge the edges to make it nice and clean. You don't need to do this, the fabric won't fray. I made this for something else, so I really wanted it to look nice inside.

Topstitch with seam allowance pointed down. Move handles out of the way.

Move the handles out of the way and topstitch the seam allowance down with 1/8". This will give the layers extra support. 

Next, you're going to clip the sides and bottom together. Sew from one opening, down, and around to the next top. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Don't sew the top. 

If you want to leave your bag like this, you're done! Ta-da! Super easy and it used up a hoodie that has probably been in a drawer or bin, unloved for a long time. 

If you'd like to box the corners, keep following along.

Pinch bottom corner and match it the seam. Sew across.

Pin triangle in place, stitch in the ditch.

Inside will look like this.

I usually cut the triangles off but, decided to leave it on this time. The extra weight helps hold heavy books, tablets, etc. I stitched in the ditch to keep the triangle from flapping around inside. Just fold the triangle up and pin it in place, then stitch in the ditch (seam in the seam).

​Or, simply cut off the excess triangle.

​Ta-da! You're all finished. This would make a great gift for a child or anyone with a beloved hoodie lying around.

All finished!

The bag is a good size and will be loved and used for years, I'm sure. 
I loved leaving the front pocket on so, others would know if was from a hoodie. Such a cute turnout.

This was the fabric that was left over. Not too bad.

There wasn't too much leftover fabric. I'm sure you could make another cute bag or add pockets inside.

I had my daughter model the bag so you could see the size reference. It's a good size!

Thanks for reading along!

​Happy hunting and happier sewing,

Annette

Crossbody Bag Review

I have found the holy grail of crossbody bags and I'm shouting it out from the rooftop! Make this crossbody bag today, you won't regret it.

This bag is the biggest-little bag I've ever laid eyes on. It's a game-changer for sure and everyone needs to have one or two! It's honestly the best travel bag I've come across! You can fill it with everything except the kitchen sink. This day-use crossbody bag is perfect for walking around museums, theme parks, concerts, national parks, etc.
I'm not getting paid for this post, I am just in love! Haha!

I've always carried my regular handbag whenever we ventured out and after a few hours, my shoulder would hurt something fierce. I eventually bought a tiny crossbody bag from a big box store for $5 because it was $5! Oh, and it was in the shape of cherries. Super cute!!

Well, my newest phone is too big for the cherry purse. So, I searched Pinterest high and low for a crossbody sewing pattern and nothing came up. Is it me or is Pinterest extremely lackluster nowadays?

I wanted pockets and the bag shape to be more horizontal than vertical. My next stop was Etsy. Thank you Etsy, for coming through. I found the best pattern and I'm sharing it with you today. Hold on to your teacup because she's a doozy.

This bag has so. many. pockets! It's comfortable to wear (aren't all crossbody bags?) and will hold allllll of your things. I'm not sharing a step-by-step tutorial in this post because the bag creator has YouTube videos and an extremely detailed PDF that comes with the pattern. This post is more of a pattern review. 

I made this one for myself so, it is full of bright colored fabrics. If you know me, I'm the opposite of a neutral person. Ha! 

Clarendon Crossbody Wallet

​by: Hold It Right There Bags

Grab the downloadable pattern here.

I want to start off by saying this bag is not great for scrap-busting. It takes a good amount of fabric. You'll also need a couple of yards of interfacing because everything needs to be interfaced. Don't skip the interfacings, bags really do need all the pieces to be reinforced. 

After you print and cut out all the PDF pattern pieces, trace and cut the fabric pieces, and interface everything 'til the cows come home, you'll be ready to sew!
Whew! 

Holy moly. This pattern has sooo many pieces. I suggest cutting and interfacing everything one day and saving the sewing for the next day.  Like I said, she's a doozy.

​The bag does come together quickly when you start sewing though. Yay for that!

I wore the bag all day on a family adventure to an aircraft carrier. It was full of all my things and a few of my kid’s things. I walked up and down stairs and spent a lot time standing, reading signs, and listening to the volunteers talk. The weight would usually have hurt my shoulder and back but, I didn't have any pain. I could have worn this bag for 3 more days without batting an eyelash. Winner-winner!

It held everything I needed for the whole day and was comfy to use/wear. 

The following weekend I was invited to go away on a girl’s trip. I left my regular purse at home and only took the crossbody bag. It was perfect. It held my money, masks, cards, and everything else I needed for a whole weekend. 

I do like a full-size handbag for everyday use so, when I got home I emptied everything back into my bigger bag. But, this was perfect for a day out.

This bag has all the pockets! It’s the greatest bag pattern I’ve ever sewn.

Assembling the bag is fairly easy. Follow the PDF directions and/or YouTube videos. There are a few added steps to help with things like zipper installation, which is great for beginners.

You don't need rivets to make this bag. You can sew across the seam easily enough. Heck, you don't even need the swivel hook or D ring. Sew one long purse strap into the bag seams. 

​Okay, here are a few changes I'd make:

Tips for Next Time

1. I wouldn't add the lining pocket. The bag is small and has a whole lot of pockets already. The main body portion is small enough and doesn't need the extra pocket (read: save your fabric).

2. I made the purse strap twice as thick. I always prefer a thicker strap so, if you're the same way, use a 1" swivel hook and double the width of the fabric strap. I still used a .5" D ring and didn't have any issues with the different hardware sizes. 

3. Next time, I want to use vinyl for the back and bottom. I didn't use any this time because it's a cross body bag. I usually don't let my crossbody bags touch the floor, they stay on my body throughout the whole day. But, I might try it in the future. 

4. I would make zipper tabs next time. This will allow the front flap to lie flat and look nicer. Yes, adding zipper tabs adds extra time but, it'll be worth it. 

5. Read through the pattern instructions first. The instructions are extremely detailed. Almost too detailed in my opinion. But, if you're brand new to bag sewing, extra details are a good thing. If you're more familiar with inserting a zipper, snap, etc.) some steps may feel a bit tedious. 

6. I would topstitch the front flap and around the main opening. The instructions don't have you do this. I suggest you do it though. Topstitching holds all the layers in place and gives it extra reinforcement.

Back view of the bag.

Pocket for cards

Inside with the lining pocket

Back of bag.

Front of bag.

Opened bag, it's huge, yet, small.

So what do you think? Are you excited to make a Clarendon Crossbody Wallet? I highly recommend this pattern and bag. I plan on making a few for friends to give as Christmas gifts this year. But, shhh, don't tell them. ;) 

Happy Sewing!
​
XO,
Annette 

Simple to Sew: Fabric Basket

Sew a fabric basket to store your little and bigger items. They're great for snacks in the pantry or corralling  makeup items on the bathroom counter. Let's get organized!

Have you caught the organization bug lately? You've cleaned your house and now need homes for all the random little things? With the world starting to open back up, you are probably having visions of people coming over. I bet you're thinking about all the backyard parties as well. Or not. Either way, everyone could use some easy storage ideas for their home. 

Fabric baskets or bins are the perfect small storage remedy. Keep some hand sanitizer inside a cute basket for your visitors. Make one and fill it with snacks for a new neighbor. Use them in the craft room for thread spools or fabric scraps. Or, make some fun home decor baskets for your kitchen and keep fruit inside.

Pick out fun fabrics from your stash or purchase new styles you love. These simple to sew, fabric baskets are 100% customizable. Soon, every room will have a fabric bin. Once you make one, you'll want to make more. I promise! Yay for getting organized!

Let's get started.

Supply List:

• Sewing Machine

• 1/4 yard (minimum) fabric for outer

• 1/4 yard fabric for lining

• Fusible or sew-in fleece interfacing

• Iron and ironing board

• Matching or contrasting thread

• Pins or clips

• Scissors

• All your other sewing notions you love

If you're looking for budget-friendly sewing options, read this post. It's long and has tons of information. If you're brand-spankin' new to sewing, start there. It's a great in-depth post even if you're a seasoned sewer. 

Fabric Choices:

You want a medium to heavy-weight fabric to make fabric bins with. The fabrics listed below are great options but, experiment with what you have on hand too. Make these entirely your own. One fabric I don't recommend is stretch knit. 

• Canvas 

• Denim

• Quilting Cotton

• Home decor fabric

• Upholstery fabric

• Linen

• Oilcloth and vinyl (I don't use interfacing for these fabrics)

Sew a Fabric Basket:

1. Prewash and iron your fabric. *If you are using oilcloth or vinyl, skip this step.

2. Cut 2 rectangles of your outer and 2 of the lining fabrics. Each should measure 10" wide by 8" tall. Of course, you can change this measurement. Make them longer or shorter, taller or wider. This just gives you a starting point.

3. Interfacings: Cut your interfacing and add to your fabric following the package instructions.

• This is where you can experiment. Use lightweight, heavyweight, or fleece interfacing. 

• When I make a smaller basket with denim or canvas, I tend to not add interfacing. 

• When sewing with quilting cotton, I use fleece or a medium-weight fusible. Find what works best for you.

• Foam interfacing is really nice to use. It costs more but, creates such a nice finish and look.

Trace your basket size.

Cut out the rectangle.

Lining will be the same size as outer.

Trace and cut 2" square at the corners.

4.  Cut squares into your fabric pieces. For the measurement above (10"x8") you'll measure a 2" square. Using a quilting ruler makes this part easy. If you don't have one, just mark 2" from the bottom and sides. *I like to place all 4 layers together to cut the corners. When I go to pin the sides and bottoms, I match the corners up. This ensures even corners.

If your basket is smaller, make a 1.5" square. If it's larger, mark a 2.5" or 3", and so forth.

I'm sure there's a science to it but, I can't really math. LOL
​How am I a sewer, you ask? I don't know. ; -)

Interfacing Hack: Piecing it Together

Add interfacing to the outer fabric. 

Here's a quick tip on interfacing if you don't have a big enough solid piece.
​
If you're short on interfacing, piece it together like a puzzle. I do this more often than I'd like to admit for my projects. So, shhh, don't tell anyone. You can't tell from the correct side. Thinner pieces should overlap slightly while thicker interfacings should butt up next to each other. 

Use a whole piece of fusible fleece. If you don’t have enough, follow the hack below.

Cut and puzzle your smaller pieces together. Use a press cloth on the fusible side and press. This takes a little bit more time, but it works in a pinch.

After your fabric pieces are cut, interfaced, and corners cut out, you're ready to sew! 

You can’t tell the difference between the full piece of interfacing or the puzzled one.

Time to Sew

1. Place the two lining pieces RST and pin/clip together.

2. Place the two outer pieces RST and pin/clip together. 

3. Use a 1/4" seam allowance, and sew each side and bottom together, backstitching at the beginning and end.

4. Now, sandwich the corners together to form the boxy bottom. Pinch them in the opposite direction so, the seams you just sewed are on top of each other. Pin together. It should lie flat if your cutting is exactly a square. Match up the side seams nicely because you will see them.

5. Sew across the small corner area with a 1/2" seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Trim your seam allowances.
   

Sew down each side and the bottom.

Pinch the lining corner together.

Match seams up.

Pin and sew.

Do the same thing with the outer fabrics.

Press the side seams open as well as you can.

6. Turn the lining right side out. Place the lining piece inside the outer piece. The right sides should be touching each other. Pin together at the  side seams first, then continue to pin around the whole top of the bin. Leave a 4" gap for turning out. You can do this at the back or along a side seam area. 

Place lining into outer. Right sides together.

Matching seams.

Pin. Leave an opening for turning.

Sew the fabric basket top, leaving a gap open for turning.

7.  Using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew around the whole top making sure to catch both layers. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the opening. 
 8.  Turn the fabric basket out. Reach inside and gently pull out the lining through the gap you left open. Then, reach inside and grab the outer fabric and pull it out, gently. This is a little more difficult because of the thicker interfacing. Just be patient and keep pulling it out through the opening.
  

Poke out the corners using a chopstick or blunt end of a pencil. I love using my chopstick for poking out corners. My dad brought it back for me, from China, when he visited 20 years ago. It's a near and dear to me, sewing notion. :-)

Pull the lining out.

Tuck the lining into the fabric basket.

Press, then pin.

Topstitch. I used a second row of stitching for this particular fabric basket.

Check your seams. Make sure everything is neat and tidy. No interfacing is sticking out or fabric that wasn't sewn in, accidentally. No puckers either. If anything is happening that you don't love, grab that seam ripper. 


    9.  Push your lining back down into the basket. Press the top edge with your iron to flatten out the seam bulk.
   10.  Last step! Pin the opening closed, and topstitch around the whole top. You can even do a second row of stitching using the edge of your pressure foot as a guide.


That's it. You're done! Go fill it up with whatever fun things you have that need a home.

It looks like a lot of steps but, it's not. Once you make a simple fabric basket, you'll want to make more. They're great for storing all the little things and big things. Just follow the interfacing guide above and experiment with different fabrics and sizes. You can add handles or loops for hanging too. Make an extra-long loop on a bin to use for a trash bin inside your car. There are endless possibilities for these little baskets of fun. 

Share in the comment section what you plan to use them for. 


XO,
Annette

---

More Options

Play with sizing. Make them tall. Make them short. If you're unsure if the sizing will work for your needs, use scrap paper to staple the pieces together. Add a handle or two. These are meant to be customized for your own use. Have fun with them!

Sew a Circle-Shaped Bag

The air is crisp and the leaves are sprinkling the ground as I type. Apple picking season is among us. I tried to hold on to summer but, there's no escaping it. Fall is here. Yay! I am ready, bring on my favorite season.

My creative side has been lacking lately so, I wanted to try something new. Usually, I only share patterns that I love or have created myself. But, I wanted to shake things up around here. So, I'm sharing one of my sewing fails. Yes, a fail. A major sewing fail. Face-palm.
​Here's the circle bag.

I wanted to try my hand at something new for the upcoming season. I saw a circle bag in a shop and knew I wanted to make one. I had light brown vinyl and planned on using it for a cute Autumnal bag. After scouring the interwebs for a free pattern, I settled on what I thought was a good one.  Welp, the pattern was not great. I don't want to throw anyone under the bus so, I'm not saying where I got the pattern. But it was "meh" at best.


I knew from the beginning this was going to be an experiment. Yay for experiments! I created a fall-themed embroidery file to place on the front, just in case the purse turned out cute. I didn't want a boring brown circle bag. 
The embroidery design has leaves, pumpkins, and a scarecrow. Fun! Although, the scarecrow was a little wonky.... don't look too close. ;)

​
Following the instructions, I gathered everything that was needed and cut out the pieces. I embroidered on the front circle only, that's the only area everyone will see. I used mismatched hardware for the strap (it's what I had on hand) and I used a brown zipper. Fall bag, here I come!

The seam ripper was using a lot. I horribly sewed a piece of fabric to cover the embroidery. Next time, I’ll just leave it alone.

Putting The Purse Together

The pattern didn't call for a stabilizer, which I thought was odd. But, hey, I've never made a circle bag before so, I forged on. 


You start with the zipper and long fabric strips that get sewn to the zipper tape. I didn't get a photo of this part. 

Then, you take the bottom bag piece and sew it to the zipper at the short ends. This makes a long loop that connects at the zipper ends.


You're then going to take a circle piece and clip the heck out of it, to your piping. I just used pre-made piping from the craft store. You can find it next to the bias tape. The instructions didn't include piping but, long story short... you need piping in a circle bag. ;) 

I used my zipper foot to sew closely around the perimeter of the bag. You have to work with the vinyl during this part. I found it easier to use tons of clips and pull as you go. I didn't use as many clips during the first round and it was more fiddly to work with.

Using the zipper foot helped to get closer to the piping.

Clip the edges.

After both circles are sewn on, turn the bag out and cry. Ask yourself why it isn't round and perfect like the picture. Retrace your steps and check if you missed something. Nope. You did it all. You followed the directions perfectly. The bag just wants to be rude and un-round. Major face-palm moment.
Carry on to the long shoulder strap anyway. Attach the hardware and add the strap. This part is easy. And, you're done!

It was an easy bag to make, but so disheartening. Why isn't it a perfectly round shape? I think it's because this is a 2020 bag. That's the only logical explanation. This bag, along with all of 2020, stinks. LOL 

So, what was learned from this experience?
Piping is your friend and foam interfacing should have been used. Vinyl and faux leather are stiff, but they benefit from something added.  

I will use this bag throughout the Fall season because it's cute. It's not perfect by any means and I'm somewhat embarrassed to show it to you. But, as sewists, we know there are wins and sewing fails. 

The circle bag has not defeated me though. I've accepted the challenge and will conquer this bag! Stay tuned for a pattern that will be free to you and will work! I'm creating and experimenting as you read this. 

Have you ever made a circle bag? Was it amazing and round? Or whackadoo and rude like mine?

Please, share any tips, tricks, or fails in the comment section. We're all in this together! LOL

If you'd like a quick pattern that is a no-fail one, click here. You're welcome. 

Ugly or not, I’ll still use the bag. Maybe.

Happy fall sewing ya’ll,

Annette

How to Sew a Custom Handbag

I made this cute handbag as a fun little distraction during quarantine. I planned on using it sooner than later, but we all know how that turned out. Ha! Days turned into weeks and it's all a blur from there. 

I had some marine vinyl leftover from another project and I came up with this little purse. 

Want to make a cute little handbag for your next shopping trip?

Here's what you need:

• 1/2 yard of marine vinyl or other faux leather-type fabric

• 1/2 yard of cotton fabric for lining

• Thread

• Sewing machine and notions

• Microtex needle

• Scrap paper for making a pattern

• Ruler and pencil

• Interfacing if needed ( I didn't use any. Gasp, I know)

• Purse feet (optional)

Cut 2 outer, 2 inner, 2 interfacing pieces.

Decide on your sizing

• Start out by ironing any wrinkles in your lining fabric. 

• Grab some paper or cardstock, freezer paper is my go-to because it's inexpensive and wide.

• Figure out how big you want your bag to be. 

• My pattern size is 9" tall x 14" wide.

• Mark 2" square cutouts on the bottom of the pattern. Cut out the paper pattern.

Once your pattern is made and cut out, it's time to trace onto the fabric. Cut out 2 pieces of vinyl and 2 pieces of lining fabric. Iron on or sew in the interfacing to the lining.

Next, cut 2 strips of the marine vinyl 3" wide by 18" long. These will be your purse straps. 

If you'd like to add a pocket, make that now. Decide on the size you want and cut a piece of fabric twice as long. You will fold the fabric in half RTS (right sides together) and sew all around leaving a 3" gap for turning out.

Press the pocket flat after you turn it out. I stuck my phone on top to figure out how wide I wanted my pocket widths to be. They aren't exactly the same width. Draw a line where you want the pockets to separate with chalk or a water-soluble pen.

Pin in place and stitch onto one lining piece. Sew in a "U" shape, do not sew the top you want it to stay open so your items can go inside. Reinforce the openings by backstitching a few times. Press.

Pin sides and bottoms together. Leaving tops open.

Using clips, clip the vinyl pieces, right sides together and pin the lining pieces RST. Sew the sides and bottoms using 1/2" seam allowance. Be sure to leave a 3" gap in the lining for turning out. Press the lining seams open. You shouldn't iron the vinyl, it may melt. Just finger-press those seams. Set both pieces aside.

Let's make the handles

Grab the 2 long strips of vinyl and all your clips. You do not want to use pins because they create permanent holes. Yikes!!

If you don't have fabric clips, use double-sided tape, chip clips, hair clips, your child’s teeth, or anything you think that will be strong enough.

• Fold in half and carefully fold those sides into the middle. It takes some finagling, but you got this! Don't let the vinyl beat you. LOL!!

• Clip along the end once you have it molded into place.

• Sew the open edge first, then the folded edge.

Scroll through the photos to see how to create your handles. I use this method for all of my purse handles.


Grab the purse's outer and inner pieces, you're going to box the corners before sewing everything together.

Boxing the corners is easy, pinch the seams together and sew 1/2" away from the edge. Do this with both lining and outer bag corners.

Your seams and corners should match nicely like the photos above. If they don't match perfectly, no biggie. You'll be the only one who knows and I'm not telling anyone. ;)

*If you have a set of purse feet lying around, you can add those following the feet instructions. I didn't have any, so I didn’t add feet to this purse. They do make a nice addition though. Next time.

Next, you're going to stitch the handles to the bag to keep them in place. Mark how far you want them from the edge. I positioned mine about 2" from the side seams. Make sure they are flipped the correct way and not twisted.

Base stitch them to the bag with a 1/4" seam. This is just to keep them from moving while you sew the bag pieces together.

After the handles are stitched in place, grab the lining piece. Keep the outer bag piece flipped inside out. Turn the lining inside out as well. Both pieces should be facing right sides together. This is important, check twice. ;) You should see the ugly sides of the fabric for both pieces.

Using clips, attach the lining to the outer matching the side seams.

Sew around the top with 1/2" seam.

After you sew the lining to the outer, reach inside and flip the bag out. This takes a little more patience because the vinyl doesn't want to give. Just tell it who's boss and that it'll be happier once it comes to the bright side. It works, I promise!!

Bagging Out

1. Find the lining hole.

2. Reach through the hole and pull the bag through the lining.

3. Pull. Yank, lightly. Pull some more to get the vinyl out.

After you pull out the lining, push it back in and make sure everything fits nicely. Poke out all the corners. 

Look over the handbag and nothing is wonky, and there aren’t any seams with holes, pull the lining out and sew the opening closed. You can do this by hand or machine.

Sew the opening closed.

Stuff the lining back into the bag, topstitch around the whole top, and you're done! Yay!!

I decided to keep the lining showing for an added pop. However, the lining doesn't sit in the bag perfectly after doing this. If you decide you like this look, add 1" in length to your lining pieces. This was a spur-of-the-moment sewing project which are my favorite because I can experiment. I like the bag size for a day out. However, I would make it 2-3" deeper if I used it as an everyday purse.

Oh, and I also added a little tie to the bag as well. If you have enough extra fabric, you can make one too. The white vinyl was just too plain and boring for my taste. 

Cut a strip about 14" long by 5" wide. Fold in half and cut the short ends at an angle, if you'd like. Stitch the open ends, leaving a 2" gap for turning.

Clip your corners, turn out, and press. Stitch the opening closed and tie it onto your bag handle. Now you have a cute accent piece on your purse.

Where are you going to strut your new bag first? The mailbox? The grocery store? The living room? The possibilities are endless. Haha!

Oh, quarantine...

I think I want to try making this bag again but with darker vinyl. The white is fine because it'll wipe clean. But, I'm thinking bright yellow or blue for summer would be fun. Let me know if you make this bag. Remember, you can alter the sizing to your liking- make it taller, wider, shorter, etc. Sewing is the best, isn't it? 

Thanks for sticking around for this tutorial! 

Virtual high fives and hugs,

Annette