Sewing the Ginger Jeans
Sew your own high waisted pair of jeans. The Ginger jeans sewing pattern by Closet Core is great. It’s beginner-friendly as well.
Ginger Jeans! I made a pair and love them. These were fun to sew and I learned a few things along the way.
Living in comfy clothes seems to be the new norm. Cozy pants especially. Fleece-lined leggings, flowy lounge pants, soft cotton harem pants, and PJ's of course. Gimme all the couch surfing pants.
Jeans don't really fit into the cozy pants category but, I'm going to talk about them anyway. Jeans are something I rarely reach for when I get dressed in the morning (afternoon?). If I do wear jeans, I reach for my Calvin Klein high-waisted skinny jeans. They fit my body like a leather glove. So, when my friend told me about the January Jeans sew-along, I jumped on board!
The Jeans Fitting Journey
This post is a little different than my usual pattern posts. Hundreds, if not more, Ginger Jeans tutorials already exist. So, I wanted to do something different. I'm taking you through my jeans-fitting journey. Beware though, it's gonna get ugly before it gets pretty.
The January Jeans sew along was hosted by some lovely ladies in the UK, on Instagram. They set up a Slack app group for all of us to post and share photos to. We had live Zoom calls every Monday and then we were put into smaller Zoom groups. It was a whole jeans journey. We helped each other with fit issues and got feedback on our own jeans.
If you've ever wanted to dabble in jeans sewing, you really need to get the fit correct. Here we go!
Materials Needed
First, you need a pattern. I chose Closet Core's Ginger Jeans pattern in View B. It's a skinny leg, high waist pattern. My favorite style of jeans. But, you might want a low rise, wide-leg style. Scour the interwebs for a pattern that fits your specific taste.
2-3 yards of Denim (check what % of stretch you'll need too)
Cotton fabric for pocket linings
Interfacing
A jeans zipper (*it needs to be a metal jeans zipper so the pull will lay flat against the pants/ your body)
Denim thread, regular thread, topstitch thread (optional)
Jeans needles
Fabric for a muslin (preferably denim)
Jeans button
Rivets (optional)
Awl and hammer for inserting buttons and rivets
Rulers, a chalk marker, scissors or rotary cutter, etc.
Sewing machine
Patience and time
Serger for finished seams (optional)
Make a Muslin
Jeans sewing is an easy process. I've made a few pairs of “jeans” from Gertie's book, Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. However, this was my first time making a zipper fly and I was a little bit intimidated. Sewing your muslin fabric is a great way to practice a new skill or technique. It wasn't hard at all!
I really do recommend sewing a muslin first. It's a trial run. You can rip out seams, cut fabric to make space for your hips and legs, and practice topstitching. Use it as your "scratch piece of paper." Through my first muslin (that I made with 0% stretch fabric), I found that the so-called high waist wasn't high enough for me. My first adjustment would be to add length to the rise.
The first muslin fit, almost. I cut out a straight size 12. I like to cut one size that is the closest to my measurements and go from there.
The jeans were snug around my bum and tummy area. An easy adjustment would be to grade up to a size 14 or 16 in the waist area. However, I knew I was going to add height to the tummy area.
Here’s what I did:
Added 1.5" to the length of the rise, to create an authentic high-waist pair of jeans.
Full tummy adjustment. This adds room for those of us with mom bellies or bloaty bellies -that's a very technical term. ;)
Took out length in the legs but, not more than an inch. I'm short but, I have long legs. Thanks to weird genetics!
Low bum adjustment. Although, I didn't end up needing this in the end.
Second Muslin
Yes, if your first muslin was a total bust, do a second one. You could easily unpick seams and go from there. However, I was changing the pattern, so I needed a second muslin. The second would be a wearable muslin pair of jeans. I grabbed some clearance denim, made my adjustments to the pattern paper, cut the new fabric, then sewed the second pair with the adjustments.
And WOW! What a difference from the first muslin. I loved the waist height. I loved what the full tummy adjustment did for me. I did not love the low bum adjustment because it added excess fabric in my rear and in the back of my thighs. You can see all the bulk in the photos below. This pair was cut in a size 12 just like my first muslin. You can see how my pattern adjustments really changed the fit.
Leg Twist Hack
I had a serious leg twist issue with one leg. I followed the cutting directions to a T, too. I cut on the single layer and alternated each leg just like the pattern recommended. Ugh!
I unpicked the inseam and side seams and sewed them back up. No more annoying twisty leg. So, if you do have this issue, I recommend unpicking the seams. Sew the inseam by starting at the cuff of one leg and go up. Backstitch at the crotch seam. Then, sew the other leg by starting at the cuff and sew up to the crotch. This may or may not be the correct way but, it fixed my issue.
Photos below are of my wearable muslin pair of Ginger Jeans. I've worn these around a few times and they fit well enough. The denim only has 1% stretch while the pattern calls for a 2%. They are a little stiffer than I'd like but, no seams have popped open when I bend over. Yet! LOL
I actually like the fit of these better than my final pair. Shhh, don’t tell anyone.
One back pocket is lower than the other but it didn't bother me enough to re-do it. Shhh, it'll be our little secret. ;-)
There is extra fabric and bagginess on the back thighs because of the low bum adjustment. It wasn't needed. I guess I have a high bum. Who knew? Hahaha!! And again, it didn't bother me enough to rip open the seams and fix it. This pair was supposed to fall into the "good enough" category. And they do just that.
Red cotton fabric was used for the pockets, you can see it peaking out a bit. I also did red bar tacks in place of rivets.
Whew, I hope you're still with me. Now, it's time for the final pair!
Final Pair of Ginger Jeans
I chose dark grey denim for my final pair of Ginger jeans. I love a red accent too so, I used red topstitching in place of rivets and made red pockets again.
For the final pair, I did the adjustments that seemed to work best for my body.
Full tummy adjustment
Added 1.5" to the rise to create an authentic high waist
Shortened my leg length by 1 inch
Placed the pockets higher to accommodate the rise adjustment
I love the fit so much! My bottom half isn't very curvy due to my apple-shaped figure. Therefore, these jeans fit so much better than any RTW pair I've ever owned. They fit my legs and waist perfectly. I'm truly happy with the fit.
I’m pretty excited about my new jeans!!
Pastel Denim
This pastel peachy denim will make a perfect pair of Spring jeans. I might even roll the hem up and wear them with flats. A flowy white top and large straw hat too, yes, please!
I love the 3D stitching on this denim. It's not something I've ever seen. I'm not sure if I'll do a white or pastel yellow contrasting thead.
Now that you followed me through my fitting fun, are you going to make your own jeans? I really do encourage you to make a pair. I've made pants before but they didn't have all the stitching detail. These taught me more about fitting your own body and how perfecting the fit really does make all the difference.
If you're still on the fence about jeans making, maybe these trousers are more your speed. They're wide-legged and flattering on everyone.
Or, would you rather stick to an easier project? Sew up a little something here, here, or here.
Either way, go sew something! You deserve it! :D
Happy jean sewing,
Annette
Sewing the Bombshell Swimsuit
Sew a 1950s style bombshell swimsuit. It’s easier than you’d think. Closet Core sewing pattern Bombshell swimsuit is beginner-friendly. Let the inner pinup out with this bathing suit.
Love vintage bathing suits but, not the authentic vintage price-tag? Grab this pattern and some swimwear fabric to create a OOAK vintage swimsuit just for you. It's not technically vintage but, it is vintage style which is the next best thing. Amiright?
We've spent plenty of time in our backyard this summer. Sprinklers, popsicles, and slip n slides, takin' it back old school style.
This month started with me participating in the #BRAugust challenge, hosted by Ying from Tailor Made Shop. She has a website, a blog, and an Etsy shop. I purchased bra making kits from her in the past. She is a sewist who creates and sells beautiful things for the lingerie sewing world. Yay for bra making!! Although, for the challenge, I did not make a bra. I opted to make a swimsuit. I've never made a swimsuit and I needed a new challenge.
PDF pattern online. The swimsuit comes in a PDF only. I love the style and have several RTW swimsuits that look the same as View A. I had some mint green lycra and knew I wanted to use it for my new swimsuit. Minty green 50's Bombshell, yes, please!
Okay, so you know the PDF drill: print out the pattern, tape everything together like a madwoman, and cut, cut, cut. Decide on the size you want to cut out first. I went with a size 12 and I had just enough fabric. The measurements were spot on with my body, no need for grading. Yay!
IKEA was sold out of desk legs but, I purchased the tabletops anyway. So, my sewing space was a hot mess. Just ignore all of the scenery behind me in the photo.
Oh, do you see the top I'm wearing? You can read all about that here.
Follow along as I sew a 50s-style swimsuit.
Layout your fabric and place your pattern pieces on top. Be sure to follow the distance of the greatest stretch arrows or DOGS. I cut some pieces with scissors but found the rotary cutter and mat were easier. The fabric is slippery, so choose your favorite method.
I only had one yard of 60" wide fabric so, I couldn't do the ruched backside. I had to make it work with the amount I had. #sewingwin
You'll have to ignore all the wrinkles in every picture. I didn't press them out and I apologize. I'm usually a stickler for getting out the wrinkles. If you squint, you might not be able to see the wrinkles.
Materials Needed
Stretch needles (Yes, you need these)
Polyester thread
Rubber or swimwear elastic- you cannot use regular cotton elastic. It will die in the salt and chlorine water.
Swimwear fabric which is a blend of lycra and spandex. I buy my knits online from Girlcharlee.com. They have a swimwear section coming soon.
Lining fabric (must be swimwear lining)
Set of foam cups (optional)
A sewing machine that can sew zigzag stitches
Serger (optional)
Rotary cutter and mat, scissors, measuring tape, ruler, and all your usual sewing notions
Water-soluble pen
Clips or ballpoint pins for pinning layers together
PDF pattern of the Bombshell bathing suit
Make sure you practice stitching on your serger and or sewing machine first. My differential feed was on, on my serger. Below is a picture of the serger settings I used. I have a Brother Lock 1143DW which I believe is similar to the 1034D. Even if you have this machine, test the stitch on a swatch piece first. Every machine is different. I mainly used my serger but did have to use the sewing machine to make gathering stitches, basting stitches, and to sew on the elastic.
These were my serger settings I used. I’m not a professional, so here’s a photo. LOL
Settings I used to make the Bombshell swimsuit with my serger.
First, you need to make gathering stitches along the sides for the ruching. I opted for the non-ruched backside because I was limited on fabric. You need to make gathering stitches for the front knot area later on. When you do attach the tie knot, make sure you sew it onto the right side of the bathing suit. I did it on the wrong side the first time around and had to unpick it. Face-palm.
Once the front piece and back pieces are sewn together, set them aside.
You will then sew the lining to the front crotch piece. It starts to look more like a swimsuit at this point. Then, sew the 2 crotch pieces together per the instructions.
Clip lining to the crotch piece. Baste. Then zigzag around the whole area.
So far, so good... I ordered rubber elastic and foam cups from Etsy shops and had to wait for those to arrive.
So, I decided to jump ahead and sew what I could until I needed those pieces. I made the straps, darts, and tie knot.
Elastic Time
You put the elastic in the legs partially so that they will be enclosed neatly and discreetly. The recommended zigzag stitch is on the pattern. I tried sewing elastic with my serger once and that was a mess and a half! So, back to my sewing machine for this part.
Measure the leg opening, this will be the length of elastic you cut.
Sew the elastic onto the lining close, but not on the edge for 3". Then, fold over and top stitch an inch or two. Leave the elastic dangling for now. Ignore the purple thread I had in my bobbin. Oops!
Sewing foam cups to your Swimwear
Here's where I went rogue:
I attached a piece of elastic to form a shelf bra. Zigzag over the elastic the length of where you basted the lining to the front crotch piece.
I added the foam cups at this point. I am a little familiar with foam cups in other garments, so I did my own thing. Place them where you want them positioned on the lining and pin. Stitch them onto the lining following their circular or triangular shape, using a zigzag stitch.
Cutaway the excess fabric- you're supposed to do this so the fit is better. And then zigzag over the foam cups again. You don't need to do it a second time, but I wanted to be safe. Ha!
Elastic isn’t stretched as sewn. It’s a 1:1 ratio of elastic and the seam length.
Finishing it up
Onto the next portion of the swimsuit.
Sew the gathering stitches for the knot tie, on the front of the swimsuit. This is barfingly easy. ;-) No photo though, sorry.
Use clips to attach the front to the back pieces matching the notches. I repositioned my clips, to clip the layers together. So many layahs (you gotta say it in a Boston accent).
After that, take the swimsuit and make a sandwich. The instructions are easy enough on the PDF. You stick the back and front together, then swoop the front lining piece up and over. Serge the side seams together. Now is the time to try it on. And, fingers crossed it fits!
Serge the sides together. Make sure to catch all the layers.
Next up, finishing the leg holes. Start at on area where the elastic is dangling and attach it to the edge. There's a math measurement to get the correct stretch on each side. Follow their instructions and you'll be golden.
For the skirt, you will measure a piece of elastic the length from side seam to side seam. Zigzag this on without stretching the elastic. Sewing 1:1 ratio.
Remember 1:1 ratio for elastic.
Next, turn the elastic over and topstitch all around the leg openings and skirt to enclose everything. Start on one side seam and zigzag around the whole opening.
You're almost done!! Woohoo!!!!
Time to sew the sweetheart neckline.
Be sure to get both layers. You can see where I missed an area. Ha! You’re going to fold this over and sew elastic on like the leg holes.
Sew the knot down by stitching in the ditch.
Your View A bombshell should look like this. It's 99% done. We just need to attach the straps. Can I get a Whoop, Whoop!?
Adding Straps
Grab your straps and get ready to zigzag them onto the swimsuit.
I tried my suit on and decided where exactly I wanted my straps to be positioned. Clipped them in place and stitched.
I added a second row of stitches just to be extra cautious. I am not part of the itty bitty... committee. ;-) We don't need any free shows.
Use a medium zigzag stitch.
I added a second row of stitching at the straps. This is completely optional.
Hooray! We're done. See how easy it was to make a swimsuit! I learned a lot along the way and you bet I'm going to make a few more. I have some fun fabrics picked out from a few different Etsy shops. I better get crackin' if I want to parade around in my backyard, in all of them.
I didn't do the halter top straps. I tried on my swimsuit and had my daughter help me mark where I wanted the straps to be attached at the back. I always wear halter strapped swimsuits and they kill my neck after a few hours. So, I was pretty stoked to be able to attach the straps in a criss-cross fashion on the back! Yay for comfort and holdability!!
Crisscross back straps are going to be so much more comfortable. I'm so excited!
Now I just need to find a pool to hang out in. 50's Bombshell style.
Are you going to make a swimsuit or have you ever thought about making one? I think this is right up there with bra-making. It's so fun and a lot easier than you'd think. And... gasp, it might even be cheaper!!
Let me know in the comments below what you think about swimsuit making.
XO,
Annette
Gertie Sews Vintage Casual (patterns from her book)
Gertie sews vintage casual book sewing patterns, tutorials, and reviews. Let’s make some vintage casual outfits. This is her best book if you’re into tops and bottoms more than over-the-top fancy dresses.
Do you have a fabric designer or pattern maker you simply adore? Maybe you have a few.
Gretchen Hirsch aka Gertie is one of my favorites.
There are quite a few fabric designers I'm obsessed with! Almost stalker-status. ;) I love almost every piece they design. And I must own it all. Insert evil laugh! Haha
As you might know, my favorite pattern designer is Gertie. She is a one-woman show and encouraged me (through her blog, TV, and books) to start sewing things for myself. GASP! Moms can sew for themselves? Yes, yes we can.
I was watching a PBS sewing show and she popped up. I can't remember what she shared on the show. But, I couldn't get past the fact that she didn't look like a typical sewing lady. She was young and had a fun style. I was instantly hooked! I found her blog, bought her books, and started a new sewing journey for myself. I still sew for my kids and shop, but I LOVE making things for myself more.
Gertie has her own pattern company, along with fabrics designed by her. She also has patterns with Butterick and Simplicity. Charms Patterns, Simplicity, and, Butterick patterns. I love it all!
40s style Blouse from Gertie’s Book, Gertie Sews Vintage Casual.
40's Style Blouse
The top I'm wearing above is from the book, Gertie Sews Vintage Casual. It's the 40's-Style Blouse made using the Sleeveless Blouse variation, pg 134.
The fit is great in this top! Why haven't I made more? I don't know but, I need to.
It was an easy afternoon project. I made this top a few years ago. This was my first top with center buttons and a placket. As you can see, they should have been placed 1/2" closer to the edge.
Oh well. I still wear it all the time.
It's an easy style to wear over pants or tucked in. The darts are placed perfectly and make for a very flattering fit.
The fabric is semi-sheer in black with pink bows and was purchased from Joann Fabrics. It is from Gertie's fabric line.
Pattern changes
I increased the armscye area. I don't consider myself to have large arms, but her patterns are usually tight in my armpits, so I size up with sleeveless patterns.
Knit sweetheart top
Next up is the Sweetheart Top, page 151.
I made 3 of these in different variations. I love how easy the pattern was to sew up, plus it's soft and cozy.
I love the sleeveless knit top however, it's tight in the armpits. I could go back and unpick the bias bindings and make the armscye bigger, or just live in pain. I choose pain! I should just make another one because I have more fabric. That sounds waaay easier than unpicking. Amiright?
Scoop neck sweater made with sweater knit fabric.
Another scoop neck, made with sweater knit that does not have a lot of stretch.
I cannot tell you enough how much I love this pattern. It's comfortable and easy to make. I made all 3 in an afternoon.
The Scoop Neck Sweater is a variation, on page 156.
I made the Scoop Neck Sweater in a black sweater knit with fun doo-doo balls all over it. The fabric I chose didn't have as much stretch in it, as it should have, but I made it work. ;) I wear the black sweater top a lot during winter.
The Puff Sleeve Sweater is another variation, on page 158.
I made this version in a tissue-weight leopard sweater knit. I ordered the fabric online and had other plans for it. But, it was too flimsy for what I bought it for, so it got stashed away. The thin knit worked pretty well for this pattern. I would want something with more stability next time, but it works and I wear it often. Win-win.
Cigarette Pants
Onto a pants pattern. These were easy to sew. But, I don't usually have fitting issues with pants. I have a short torso and narrow hips/ booty.
I made the Pedal Pusher variation, on page 166.
I made a muslin first, just to be safe. They are form-fitting and very flattering. They give me curves. Yay! The instructions were a little confusing when it came to the pockets, but I figured them out and forged onward.
I did end up splitting the crotch seam at one point while wearing them, AHHH!! Came home and stitched over that seam multiple times. Yikes! Nobody wants a popped seam, especially there!
Black and white polka dot pedal pushers, yes please!
I also made the Flared Shorts Variation, on page 167. They are my favorite, can you tell?
I have a few pairs of these shorts and love the style and fit.
The flamingo pair has a tiki vibe and I didn't sew pockets in them. I regret that, of course. I made these to go on vacation, so I skipped the pockets. Don't skip the pockets. Haha
I made a red and white polka dot pair with pockets. I love these but don't reach for them as often. I usually pair the shorts with a black top and rock the Mickey Mouse look.
Well, that's it from this book. Do you have this book or any of her books? I reach for this book more than her others. I like a casual vintage style for every day.
Have you made any of these patterns? Or do you want to? Please share in the comments below.
XO,
Annette
Laundry Day Dress
Laundry day dress by love notions pattern review. The dress is perfect for beginner sewists and can be made into a pinup style with added accessories.
This dress is perfect for lounging around the house or doing laundry. It's the Laundry Day Tee dress. Simple to sew and comfy for a laid-back Sunday.
Are you ready for Spring? I've been playing (cleaning) in the yard lately. We planted 5 new rose bushes, hydrangeas, and various berry bushes. Ahh, it feels so good to be outdoors after the long winter we've had. The daytime temps in my corner of Southern California are rising and the weather got me thinking about all the outfits and bags I plan to make for summer.
Cue the Laundry day tee dress by Love Notions. The dress comes in a great size range XS-5X. Yay! I snatched up the pattern for $5. What a steal!! I had never heard of this pattern company until I went to the Arizona Sewcial. Boy, I was excited when I went to their website. Give me all the knit patterns. I bought the Sabrina Slims pants pattern as well. Stay tuned for that review.
This post isn't a sewing tutorial so much as it's more of a pattern review. So, here ya go.
PROS
This pattern can be made in many variations. I loved the dress version most. I have a few lightweight dresses I constantly reach for during summer. Flouncy and bouncy without zippers or waistbands to contend with. They keep me happy and comfy during the humid months. So, I knew I wanted to make an easy knit dress for Summer.
The pattern lets you choose from long sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, short sleeves, or a tank style. You can make a top or dress, long, short, tunic whatever you fancy. Oh, and it has an optional cowl neckline too. Whew! So many options.
I chose the dress length, short sleeves, and the V-neckline.
The pattern calls for stretch knit fabric and was a quick project on the serger. Cut to finish took 2 hours, minus the V-neck insertion of doom.
CONS
In choosing the V-neck, I was surprised as to how confusing that whole ordeal was. I've made a handful of V-neck tops and they've been easy as pie. This one was not. Maybe it was a combo of the fabric and my sewing brain, but I won't follow that insertion again. I had to make it twice and it still isn't centered into the V. Ugh
I printed and cut the full bust front piece. I usually do an FBA on all my dresses and tops, so I thought this was a neat option. However, in trying the dress on, it looked frumpy. Maternity-like if you will. My husband and 2 older kids said it looked frumpy too and I didn't like how I looked in the dress. Frumpy is a four-letter word to me. Ha!
So, I added a cinch belt, a cute sweater, matching flats, and jewelry to turn the dress into a casual pinup look. Yay! Almost similar to the Popover dress I made. Almost.
I want to print out the regular front piece and see how that fits. I think it might fit a tad better. And, I want to size down next time as well.
Frumpiness aside, it's comfortable and easy to throw on. I see a few of these becoming Summer wardrobe staples. Heck, I might make a nightgown too, with some added length.
This pattern is perfect for beginners.
Print, cut, and tape the PDF pieces together. It has very few pieces; one front and one back, a neckline piece, and sleeves or armband facings if you choose the tank version. Oh and that cowl piece too.
SEWING STEPS
Sew the shoulder seams, making sure to use clear elastic to support those seams.
Attach the sleeves, easy enough making sure to match the notches.
2 notches for the back, 1 notch for the front of the armscye.
Attach the neckline, hem the sleeves, and bottom hem and you're done. So easy!!
So what do you think? Have you ever wanted to make a T-shirt dress?
As always, thanks for hanging out. Please share this post and blog with your friends and family and follow me on Instagram @sewingtothemoon.
Leave a comment below if you plan on making this pattern or have already made it.
XO,
Annette
Playful Butterick B6354 Bustier
How to sew plastic boning into a bustier. Butterick 6354 sewing pattern. Sew a quick form-fitting pinup style top.
Happy March!! Hope you are staying safe and healthy, and have enough toilet paper! Ha! Never thought I'd say that. Whew, what a world we live in right now. This month has not gone as planned for anyone, I'm sure. We were supposed to leave for a family cruise, but that was cancelled along with school, life, and everything else.
When life gives you lemons, get the peeler and enjoy the process.
I'm enjoying the time with my kids instead of having to drop off and pickup from school. We even have enough toilet paper. We luckily bought ours before the crazy hit the fan. LOL
I worked on this Butterick top all week and after trial and error, I finally got the sizing correct and finished it. For the cruise. That was cancelled. :/
I wanted to spend more time on the boning portion of this pattern for you guys. Do you search for tutorials before you make something new? It's nice to get a feel for things before getting your head in the game, right? I didn't see any in depth tutorials on how to insert boning. I wanted to spend time on the boning portion with this post. The pattern is pretty easy and straight forward otherwise.
This was the FBA that I ended up not needing. Ha!
Pattern time
1 yard of fabric + lining.
7" Separating zipper
Thread
2 1/5" yards of boning. I opted for plastic this time because this top will be used during warmer weather and I didn't want the bulk of the stainless steel boning. I grabbed 2 packs from my local craft shop. Each package only has 2 yards.
2 Buttons
All your sewing notions and machine
Scissors for cutting plastic boning that aren't your fabric ones.
Buttonhole foot
Zipper foot
Hand-sewing needle and thread
According to the pattern envelope, I needed a size 14. I also made an FBA (full bust adjustment) after my first muslin seemed snug. Well, it ended up being huuuge. No, I couldn't just take in a little at the side seams. This was big enough to fit the movie snacks, popcorn, sodas, and my kids!! Face-palm!
But at this point, I accepted the challenge. Game on!
"It's not sewing unless you use your seam ripper." - Me.
I unpicked the bodice, lining, and boning casings. I then re-cut to a size 14 minus the FBA. Sewed it up and it was still big. I could fit the snacks only, this time.
So, I unpicked it again and cut a size 12, no FBA. Size 12 fit well enough. I might try a size 10 next time.
After you decide which size you're going with, trace your pattern off. Grade between sizes if needed.
Transfer all the markings onto your pieces, especially the lining pieces. You'll need accurate placement lines to position your boning.
Sew your darts on all the pieces.
Pattern instructions always have you make one thing at a time, but I sew all the darts on the outer and lining at the same time. It makes more sense in my head to do it this way, but you do whatever feels comfortable for you.
After the darts are sewn, place the 2 front pieces together, RST (right sides together) matching notches and dart seams. Sew from the waist up.
Then, grab the front band pieces. Sew together and fold in half, if you haven't already.
You're going to attach this piece to the bodice you just sewed.
TIPS
I cut into the band’s raw edge after it was folded to make the sewing process easier. It helped me. You can do this if you want or not. I clipped into the raw edge 1/4".
After I sewed the band on, I stitched in the ditch of the center seam to keep it from flopping around. I didn't like the look until I did the top stitching. You can see the photo below, I didn't stitch it down at this point. It was sloppy looking. The first photo was after I stitched it down. See the difference?
Insert your separating zipper. WOW! This was my first time using a separated zipper and boy was it easy. You're making a lapped zip, so be sure to press one seam 1/2" and the other 5/8". The left side laps over the right side, hiding the zipper in true vintage fashion. Follow the pattern directions for the insertion.
Sew the side pieces onto the bodice, matching notches. Sew from the waist up. Easy peasy.
Your top should look like the photo below.
Now onto the lining part with the boning. Take a deep breath, you go this!
You want to measure and cut the strips of boning/ casing before you sew it in.
If you're having a difficult time with the boning being curled, steam the strips using your iron. Use the cotton setting with plenty of steam, and make sure the plastic is covered with the casing or a cloth. You don't want to melt the plastic. Wiggle the piece up and down, similar to how you would with a false eyelash. They should lie flat.
Sew the casing strips onto the bodice lining, leaving a 5/8" seam allowance between the casing end and the fabric edge.
Pin in place to keep them in order. Start on the top, backstitch, and sew down one line. Backstitch. Then, sew on the other side. Backstitch and sew the top short edge and pivot back to go down the long edge on the left side. So you're making a backward 7.
You need to leave the bottom open to insert the boning piece. Follow along the stitching line, it doesn't have to be 100% perfect, just try to sew a straight line.
Preparing your plastic boning.
You don't want sharp edges that will poke you, or worse poke through your new garment.
Trim the plastic boning with a pair of scissors, not your fabric scissors.
Bonus tip: use a permanent marker to number your boning pieces. Start from the left or right. This number system kept me from going insane. ;) Slightly...
If your boning is rounded still, steam the strips, and they flatten out nicely.
After all the boning is inserted, stitch the open ends closed. The pattern doesn't say to do this, but it's an extra precaution.
Match the bodice and the lining RST and sew across the top and across the bottom. Leave the sides open for turning out. Hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape.
Sew the neck strap and mark the spots for the button holes.
Try the top on and see if you need to move the markings to fit your body.
Check your manual for instructions on buttonholes if you need a refresher.
Match the button holes on the strap to the pattern piece.
Place the buttonhole markings and make them using your buttonhole foot.
Hand-sew or machine-sew the buttons into place, and you're done! Yay!!
Front View
Back View
I've started making one in zombie pinup fabric. Yes, I will wear it year-round. My inner goth gal can't resist. ;) I made a gathered skirt with the zombie pinup fabric, so I'll wear them together. Give me matchy-matchy any day!
I have a few other high-waisted pants I plan on wearing the black one with.
Have you made this top? Is it in your pattern stash? I say make it! It was really easy after I got the sizing figured out.
Share in the comments below if you plan to make this or another piece from the pattern. I made the bolero to match with this dress. The bolero is super duper easy!
As always, thanks for hanging out with me. Keep your seam ripper sharp and your bobbins full!
XO,
Annette